Another Tesla Road Trip, Florida to Illinois this time.

Well quite a lot of you seemed to sort of like my previous ramblings about my first long distance Tesla Model S trip, in fact one comment was “I can see a real potential for you as travel commentator if your day job dries up. At least it worked for two other Pommy wankers, Alistair Cooke and Stephen Fry”. Another individual, a former graduate student of mine, who may remain anonymous for now since I didn’t ask him if he wanted to be nonymous, was so impressed that he just bought a new Tesla 90D, the latest version of my car. To be fair I should also mention some people wondered why I was bothering with all this textual ramblings and asked why I don’t spend my time more productively in cinemas, bars or restaurants like normal people. So here is a link to my ramblings about that previous trip if you happen to be interested. Anyway despite my textual problems I felt impelled to write another one about this recent Tesla trip to Chicago and back, I don’t know why. This took place about 6 months after the first one, in October 2015, and is actually my fourth really long Tesla trip; after Gainesville > Texas I did Gainesville > New Mexico, then Gainesville > Rhode Island. And of course back, in all cases using superchargers or somehow finagling free electrons so the cost of actually moving me down the road was a nice round number, a big round zilch. So this is another missive from the dawn of the EV era. So now I got a much better idea about how the car works, so navigating charging etc. is a lot more efficient. In fact since this Chicago trip I did another long one to Pennsylvania, Scranton actually, as my son moved up there on a whim, with his girlfriend on her whim also, and so their two whims railroaded me sort of to move a bunch of hisnher stuffs up there and also do some solstice celebratering, so now the Tesla is at over 22,000 miles in 8 months at no direct cost in noxious fossil fuel crap to me anyway.
Anyway, I digress, so in October 2015 I had to go to this meeting in Chicago, the big annual Society for Neuroscience, a giant affair with 30,000 or so participants, so I will be a mere mote on the giant dust bunny of humanity there. I’ve been to that meeting numerous times, mostly as a scientist but for the last two previous years as the owner and founder of my own little biotech company. So I will have a booth there where I will show off what my company can and/or can’t do. Normally I would have some help from someone else in the company, but this time, and it is very long story why, I was on my own. Also, I have a lot of stuffs to take to set up the booth and being a serial procrastinator, I am not good at organizing stuffs until the very last possible moment. Why? Well the reason is that being a serial procrastinator my time is always taken up dealing with the previous crisis at the very last possible moment so I can’t get on the next crisis til that one is dealt with. Getting all these stuffs together in time for shipping means getting them all packed up a week or more before the meeting, nicely in boxes and sent off to Chicago. It’s about 1,200 miles to Chicago from Gainesville and I now know I can drive that in less than two days, so if I take stuffs there in the car I have several more days to get my ass and various other parts of me and other things together. So I decide to drive, it will also not cost much, I can bring my Leatherman tool, normal sized toothpaste tubes and anti-armpit stink stuffs, any amount of any drink I want, I won’t have to stand in long lines at the airport, I won’t be embarrassed by the holes in my socks as I forget I would have to take my shoes off, I won’t have the TSA steal my stuffs (this happens a lot apparently), I won’t get stranded for hours or overnight in Atlanta or Charlotte, I won’t have to sit next to some monstrous porkers who fall asleep and then flop over onto me on the airplane, I won’t loose my baggage and I can visit friends on the way, have various adventures and lollygag around as and when I feel like it especially on the way back. Also airplanes dump huge amounts of CO2 into the atmosphere, in fact flying in a shitty fossil burning jet burns about as much of the oily crap as if you drove the same distance in some useless Mercedes or some other old crap SUV on your own. So I avoided at least 4 jet flights this year since I would rather go in the car anyway, directly generating absolutely no CO2.

Day 1, Thursday

I fully charged up the day before at home using my clothes dryer 220V outlet so I had 200 plus miles on day 1 before I started, the tacho is at 15,118 miles. I set out from my company lab at about 5:00 p.m, after a fairly normal days of what we can refer to for the sake of argument as work. During the day I installed the new 7.0 version Tesla software, just available right then, which is supposed to add the lane assist thing and some other options which I am eager and willing to test out. I start up the car and all the dashboard things now look a bit unfamiliar, and I think I liked the older version better, but I suppose I will get used to the new type. The lane assist does not seem to work and I wonder if I have to put in a password or something, but don’t really spend much time futzing with it. Later I found out it worked fine and that I had just been too stupid to figure out exactly how to turn it on, so I did not use it on this trip which was a pity as it would have been quite useful. To digress again, it works great and is particularly useful on long trips on the interstate. Here is an interesting thought. I am sure that in the next few weeks and/or months some person will get in their Tesla, get on the interstate, put on the cruise control and lane awareness things and then die of a heart attack or stroke or something. The car will keep on going, slowing down if the car in front slows down, stopping if the car in front stops, taking off if the car in front takes off and staying safely in the lane. So the car might end up in the next state with a dead driver and will only stop when the battery is totally flat. I confidently predict there will be a news story about this, which may say negative things about the Tesla. But of course if you die in a car without an autopilot you won’t stay on the road which would presumably not be good also. Anyway, remember, you heard it here first.

But anyway I set out and headed off to a celebration in Alachua, a minor native settlement fortuitously about 15 miles north of Gainesville off of I95, and so on the way to Chicago. This is where I had a small lab from 2002-2006, in the Sid Martin Biotechnology Incubator, so I know quite a lot of people up there that I don’t get to see so much now. Had three beers and some sort of meaty pie things, did a lot of blah blah with a lot of people, including Barb, Pattie, Merrie, Maulik, John, Roger, Stephen, Tammy and several others, and also met some people I did not know before who mostly seemed normal and fairly reasonable. Was particularly pleased to see Steve Benner, a brilliant scientist who I had not been in contact with for a while. My son and his were friends when they were growing up 10 or more years ago, and we catch up on what each of them are doing, and, like most parents, we just shrug our shoulders and agree we have to just put up with whatever shit it is they decide to do or not do, they are clearly not going to take any advice from us anyway. Showed off the Tesla to a few people who were duly impressed. Anyway, the party does not last too long, so at about 7:30 I headed off north, thinking that the three beers I just drank is sort of borderline for a long distance trip, but am fairly confident that I, and my very powerful and well trained liver, can handle it. Since I still have plenty of electrons I bypassed the Lake City supercharger about 30 miles north of Alachua and headed off to the Tifton, Georgia, supercharger. I only need about 20 minutes charge to get to the next charger from there so I plug in, as usual in the south mine is the only Tesla there. I just wander off to a convenience store, get a coffee, use the bathroom and then back to the car and off I went. I did stop long enough to see if you can use the Starbucks free Wifi without actually going in, and I found in fact you can, a factoid which I will store in my little brain for future use. For some reason I have an unreasoning fear of Starbucks, maybe because I usually just want a simple cup of coffee which they don’t seem to have, not some fancy nonsense thing.

Next stop the Macon, Georgia, supercharger, 95 miles away behind a big civic center, again my car the only one there at around 11:30 pm. I wander around the Macon downtown, looks quite nice, some bars, restaurants and punky looking people walking around. I wonder if Macon is similar to Athens, Georgia, home of the amazing bands REM and the B52s, but I don’t know about that. Later on the trip I meet someone in a bar who tells me that Macon is an absolute dump, oh well. So after a few minutes I have enough charge to make it to Atlanta so I set off again.

I drive til well past midnight and finally think I had better crash (I mean sleep, as I otherwise might actually really crash) somewhere. I find a Motel 6 in Forsyth still in Georgia. I check in, and there is a rather largish dark haired maybe 18 year old lady behind the counter. I ask her about the rooms and try get both an ARP and AAA discount, but can only get one apparently. I ask if there is an AA discount, and she says no, apparently Alcoholics Anonymous have to pay full price, but I think she didn’t get it. Anyway I then head off to the room. I am hungry having only had a snack at this party thing in Alachua with nothing else all day, and I could also do with a beer (or two)(or three)(or four). I walk around the hotel and the environs of the hotel and everything is closed, well it is like 1:30 am. Disappointed I head back to the hotel where I go to the junk food machines and buy 4 bags of chips as there is nothing else. I see the check in lady sitting there smoking and futzing with her smart phone and she tells me breakfast starts at 6:00 am and she makes the coffee at 5:30, so I can see she is the all night shift, poor girl. So I yak with her briefly but not too much as I sense she is a little worried to be talking to a quite strange man with a funny accent late at night with nobody else around. So I go off to bed and sleep.

Day 2, Friday

I get up at 7:20 and get myself watered, scrapped, deodorized, dressed etc. I check out, the people behind the counters are now two Asians, a younger one and an older one, maybe the father. An awful lot of Asians run hotels in the US, and I wonder why that is. I guess it is because they are well educated and entrepreneurial and I remember they basically took over the corner shop industry in England in the 70s when I was a poor, in both senses of the word, student. There is no breakfast in the hotel, but some coffee, and so I get some. A skinny black guy, maybe 40 or so, with hair like Bob Marley, says good morning in a very friendly way and asks me if I traveling and I say yes. He asks where I am going and I say Chicago, so he says that I must go past Atlanta and I say yes as this is sort of undeniable given how the US interstates are organized. He then is on his cell phone the next second but asks me to wait till he is done. I wonder if I should not just bugger off, but anyway I don’t. I am feeling good, I am over 6 foot tall and in good physical condition, dressed in my camo top and cargo pants so I don’t look as if robbing me would be a pushover. The guy presumably wants a lift. Of course I wonder what I might be getting myself into, will this guy try to rob me or does he have a knife or gun or something? Was it totally racist of me to be thinking along those lines? Maybe, but I would likely have exactly the same thoughts with any white guy trying to get a lift. Anyway my curiosity gets the better of me, he wants a ride to Atlanta and I think for a second and decide why the hell not, it might be interesting. So we set off. His last name is Fudge, and he says a school he was teased as “brownie fudge” or something. It’s about 1 hour drive to the Decatur supercharger so I get his life story, all a bit sad. Trouble with the law, prison, drugs, but now he is apparently trying to make it more or less legally. He tries to sell me some nice looking socket wrenches but I tell him I got some already, which I am not making up, as I am in fact overflowing with socket wrenches of all possible sizes. Then he has some cell phone cables and chargers and stuff and I say I will look at them when we get to Decatur. I ask where he got them and there is some vague thing about some lady with a credit card who gave them to him which I don’t quite get. Since we seem to be getting quite honest with each other I ask him if the stuff is stolen and he says no. I tell him the expurgated version of my life story and he is interested in the car, he did not know Teslas existed before. Finally we are having a grand old time, talking about life, the south, politics and he really opens up. He likes Hillary Clinton but has apparently never voted, and I tell him he should, at the same time wondering if he is allowed to being presumably a felon. He lives in motels which would be expensive if you paid for the rooms every night, and I sort of wonder about that too. He is going to a training course in North Dakota with his wife to be a truck driver, they can both drive one of those big rigs which he tells me often have two beds and two drivers which I did not know. He really loves his wife he says. Finally he tells me he has been HIV positive for 19 years, and he got HIV from a white prostitute. I ask him if he is on drugs and very defensively he says “what do you mean, crack, cocaine?” I say no, I mean like AZT or something. So he goes on about AZT, apparently a drug with side effects, and some of the newer drugs which are apparently much better. I naturally ask how he can pay for all the drugs, the AZT type I mean, not the crack and cocaine, and he says that the guvmint apparently pays for them, since he doesn’t earn enough to pay for them himself, which I find a bit surprising, the US is not quite so heartless after all. Anyway he uses my phone to call all kinds of people and wants me to drop him off at a MARTA station, the Atlanta subway. He is being a bit demanding but I do this as it is only a mile or so out of my way. He tells me he always has to hustle to make it in life, and I buy a battery charger thing for a cell phone from him for $5 and he is ecstatic. So we part as the best of friends, though I suppose we will never meet again. I take a picture of him as he is leaving and he looks very suspicious, maybe wondering if I have some connection to law enforcement or something. I feel sort of good for not being frightened of him and giving him the chance to not rob me or assault me but just behave as a decent human being.

The guy I picked up in Forsyth, GA
The guy I picked up in Forsyth, GA

So anyway I pull into the Decatur, Georgia, supercharger, really part of Atlanta. This is in a Tesla Dealership and I plug in my car right next to another Model S. There are a load of other Tesla model S cars parked all over there, maybe 10 or more, the most I ever saw in one place. I decide to wander off to a huge mall in the next block but this is being built so all I manage to do is walk through a building site. I find a Moe’s Southern Grill there but that is also sadly not built yet, so no burrito for me. I do find a convenience store to get a coffee and then I head back to the car. I had noticed, using the Tesla iPhone app, the car was charging unusually slowly at first, and I wonder why that might be. I then remember that someone told me that if you plug two Teslas into neighboring superchargers the speed of charging of both is lower, so I think I may have done something stupid, plugging in right next to that other Tesla, as there were several other chargers I could have plugged into. The chargers are usually labelled 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B etc. which seems to lend credence to this hypothetical. Anyway, suddenly the charging rate returns to normal and when I get back the other Tesla is gone, so I guess this is all true. I go into the dealership to use the rest room which I manage to do without anyone seeing me, which is a marginal thrill, maybe I could do that in the White House? When I get out I talk to one of the guys there, since I have noticed they have some Tesla t-shirts and jackets. He is a tall thin friendly white haired Caucasian, maybe 50 or so. With my usual brilliant planning I had realized that it might be cold in Chicago in October and that I should take a jacket, so I had even figured out which one to take, but then forgot I had thought that, so I didn’t, so I now need a jacket. The guy tells me the jackets are all for women and anyway, even if I want to go transexual, they don’t have any my size but they might have one at some other place across town. So I tell him I’m just passing through on the way to Chicago and don’t really want to dawdle too much on the way out, as I have to be there for this meeting thing. We then go on about Teslas for a bit, the usual how fantastic they are blah blah etc., which of course you would expect to hear from a Tesla dealer. I forget to ask about the two charger thing and off I head. As I am driving around Atlanta I see several Nissan Leafs and another Model S on the road, and I remember I read somewhere that Georgia and Atlanta in particular have a lot of EVs as a result of very generous state subsidies on top of the already generous federal tax breaks, $7,500 from the feds and $5,000 from the state I think it was. I also heard that they just stopped the state subsidies and actually started a new annual fee for EVs, on the grounds that EVs obviously don’t contribute anything in gas taxes. So I wonder if EV sales there will now plummet, a shame if they do.

Next stop is the Chattanooga airport supercharger. This is in a parking lot next to the air terminal so I go into the airport while I am charging, mine being the only Tesla there. This part of the country must have a VW factory in it, as there is some crappy VW fossil burning junkmobile car sitting in the airport on display. All the news at that time is about how VW had put some software into their shitty Diesel engines so that the car would know when it was being tested for emissions, at which time it would temporarily go into low emission  super clean mode, thus passing the test. But the engine in normal driving mode produces 40 times as much NOX pollution as in this cheating mode. I am surprised to hear about this as VW has a reputation for high technology, reliability and I had thought honesty and Germany in general is far more environmentally aware than the US. In fact Germany now gets almost 30% of its energy from renewables, mostly installed in the last few years, and this will continue to increase, check out the Energiewende. So finding out that VW was just plain dishonest is sort of shocking, polluting their own people 4,000% more than they claimed. I also wonder about the future of the German Rudolf Diesel engine, which in terms of efficiency is far better then the ridiculous crappy old also German Nikolaus Otto gasoline engine. Can you really make Diesels clean without producing all this crap which people have to breath? A coincidence that I see the car prominently displayed in an airport at the same time as I hear all this VW stuff on the radio? I DON”T THINK SO. This is of course also further evidence for the Truman show theory of life. There is also a Triumph motorcycle on display in the terminal, further evidence for the Truman show theory of life, as I have owned four of those over the years. Anyway I am hungry so I order a hot dog and fries from the punky studenty lady in the little fast food place there and cruise the free WiFi. I think what the hell and I get a beer also.

So then I navigate off to the Knoxville supercharger, about 90 miles away. I realize the beer was not such a great idea as I am in danger of just nodding off, which, with no autopilot, might not be too wonderful. Anyway I make it and wander off to the Target, where I buy a jacket. They have some cargo pants and they have 32″X34″ size, which I usually buy if I see them as they are my size but fairly rare in the US. This is because many people in the US are seriously overweight, so you can find 38″, 42″ and larger waists without any problem, sometimes coupled with comically short legs like 28″ or 30″, and this gives a good view of the most common US body forms. There is a Starbucks in the Target and right next to it Target’s own little restaurant, and so being the connoisseur that I am I buy a coffee from Target and not Starbucks, well it’s cheaper and I can’t tell the difference anyway but it should keep me awake, then I head back to the car.

Next stop is the London Kentucky supercharger, which I find without too much difficulty. As I come in there is some intense looking unshaven white guy in a non-Tesla car in one of the Tesla bays sitting in the front seat of his car drinking a coffee and staring fixedly forwards. He totally ignores me as I incompetently back in. He has two little blond girls in the back seat who do look at me and clearly are talking about this car coming in backwards or whatever, but the guy continues to ignore me. I then notice a black car which I take to be a Tesla in one of the other Tesla spots. Anyway wondering what is up with this guy, I head off for a coffee and a leak as usual and when I get back the guy and his girls have gone and two tough looking young white guys with tattoos and dirty jeans come up and talk about the Tesla. They are working on the black car which on closer examination turns out to be some crappy old Honda which they are doing something to. We go on about Teslas, range, cost of charging all the rest of it. One guy has a red beard and strong southern accent with a faintly Scottish turn to it and he does almost all the talking. Presumably an Appalachian, which has a strong Scottish and Irish influence. The other guy has very intense black eyes and is very quiet but keeps looking at me. My old PhD adviser told me that people with black eyes are always very intelligent and I wonder if that is true, there must be some data on this by now. This guy is a little unsettling anyway, but after a few minutes him and his buddy take off and soon after so do I.

The next stop is the Lexington Kentucky supercharger, and I get there at about 6:30, my Tesla is the only one there and I plug in. I wander off to look around and fairly urgently look for a bathroom as I am having what can only described as an exploding fart attack, this happens a lot when I travel. The charger is in a big mall right next to a Meijer store which I realize must be the local clone of Publix, Wegmans and so on. As I walk past the building on the way in I see what appears to be a turd stuck on the wall, which is a bit odd so I look at it more closely and it is actually a little furry turd, even more peculiar. Then I realize it is a tiny bat, just out there in the open. So I go off into the store to do my noisy and noxious business in the bathroom and head back to the car, noting that the little furry turd/bat thing is still there. I get some photogear from the car and return to the furry turd/bat to take pictures, poking it with my iPhone to make it open it’s mouth. It seems to get quite annoyed by this but does not fly off. A big SUV pulls up and stops next to me, the people obviously wondering why this strange lanky guy in camo is energetically taking pictures of something on the wall of a supermarket which most closely resembles a turd. Eventually a white guy with a hat and very interesting beard gets out with his two kids, I suppose, and asks me politely what I am doing. I point out the furry turd/bat thing and they are all interested, pulling out tablets, phones etc. and soon a bunch of other people are staring at the furry turd/bat also. The guy seems to know a lot about furry turd/bats and tells me it is a “little brown bat”, which is a good description as it is in fact not a furry turd but a little brown bat. So I nod sagely and agree, wondering if he is bullshitting me, and thinking that I that I am certainly bullshitting him as nodding sagely implies I knew that when I didn’t. Later I look it up and “little brown bat” is apparently a real thing, scientific name Myotis lucifugens, which means “mouse ears, light fleeing”, though this one does not seem to have fled the light much, being as it is clasped onto a wall in broad daylight. I remember that in Australia there is a “superb parrot”, which was a real thing also, look it up if you don’t believe me. The guy seems very knowledgeable and has some sort of biology background and we go on about echolocating and how bats don’t really fly into your hair with some other furry turd/bat fanciers listening to our putative erudition. We both heard about this totally blind guy who makes this clicking noise and can use that to echolocate like a bat, I think there was a TED talk from him. The beardy guy says that this bloke is able to ride a bicycle safely, which I had not heard, but again I bullshittingly nod sagely as if I knew that. Other people come up to look at the furry turd/bat, several old guys and one middle aged lady who pushes to the front of the crowd of furry turd/bat fanciers, takes a cell phone picture of the furry turd/bat thing and then takes off without speaking or making eye contact to anyone, except perhaps the furry turd/bat.

Little brown bat
A little brown bat which is actually a real thing, like a superb parrot for example
IMG_1337
The furry turd/bat, the beardy guy and his non-beardy kids and some other old furry turd/bat fancying bloke

Then off to the Cincinnati supercharger, which is next to a Tesla dealer, and I get there at maybe 10:00 pm, so of course it is closed. Unusually two other Teslas are plugged in, and both have people in them, but they don’t seem too interested in talking to me. I guess Tesla novelty is beginning to wear off and it now becomes more and more possible that another Tesla owner might not be a really cool person like you but just some other typical asshole. Recently I noted that certain people I come across at the chargers who have the larger and more expensive 21″ wheels or the cool red  brakes or the performance p85 models look down on mere mortals who only shelled out $70, $80 or $90K for the versions with slightly smaller wheels, what absolute asshole snots. Anyway I decide to go for a walk so I blunder around in the dark as there is really nothing much of interest around this particular charger especially at this time of night. So after about 20 minutes I find some bushes that I can safely urinate in without getting arrested. And then I go back to the car and head off again.

So what do I do on these long trips? Well I don’t get bored, I listen to the radio, hunting for a NPR station in range is usually the first thing. I am a news junky, I want to know what is going on in the world, quite a lot of which I have managed to see one way or another. I also listen to music, to podcasts and just got into recordings of books. So I downloaded Chuck Darwin’s famous Origin of Species book, which I certainly thought I had read, but on hearing it read out to me didn’t recognize it much at all. So on reflection I think I must have read like the first few chapters and then somehow thought I had read the whole thing. The whole thing is a revelation. This guy was obviously unbelievably erudite, he knew enormous amounts about all manner of plants and animals, he knew what hundreds of others around the world were up to from their letters and books and he was also a first class and original geologist. So I am treated to all kinds of interesting little descriptions of pigeon breeding, stripes on horses, the life of barnacles and numerous other topics. I wonder what he would have thought of DNA and protein sequence work which makes his theory undeniable, though it was undeniable already. Also what he would have thought of Alan Turing’s work on diffusible morphogens which explains how stripes and spots appear on the backs of animals and really also explains how genes can make things like fingers, toes, other body parts. That is really cool stuff and I’ll write a blog on that sometime also.

I drive some more until I get tired. I find when I am tired I drift from one side of the lane to the other which can get a bit dangerous, so it would be great if I had been smart enough to figure out how to turn the lane awareness thing on, but as I noted I initially wasn’t. If I kept driving I could get to Chicago at maybe 3 in the morning, but there is no particular need for that so I find some random hotel, a Quality Inn in Shelbyville, Indiana. The guys behind the counter are a maybe 25 year old rather slow witted American who seems to be learning the job and a dark skinned Asian who clearly knows what is going on. The American has a goatee and is quite overweight, while the Asian is very self possessed, thin, erect and clearly the boss, as the American keeps asking him how to do this or that. The American also seems to have a very hard time entering my phone number into the computer which seem odd as this is, well, just numbers, so it should not be so difficult. Also there is a calendar on the wall and the picture shows some white mustachioed Indian guy with a crazy smile and one of those spots on the space right between the eyebrows, and I guess he must be some possibly Hindu or something holy man, I dunno. In the west I have never seen holy men calendars, but I suppose some people have Pat Robertson, Joel Osteen and other allegedly holy men on their calendars, all beyond my experience however. They ask me if I want two queen beds or a king size and I say I really don’t care as there is only one of me so whatever. That is not a useful response and they clearly want a firmer answer so I then ask if one is cheaper than the other, and they say no difference. So I say that I normally only sleep in one bed per night, not unusual behavior and like most people I expect, so the king size is probably fine, so we settle on that. Another guy comes in to the hotel, and he is also a little overweight, has a goatee and is clearly American, so I ask the goatee guy behind the counter if they are related, I would have guessed they are. Apparently not, and the suggestion is hilarious for some reason, maybe some class or ethnic difference in the Midwest that I am not aware of makes this suggestion idiotic and/or highly amusing. So I go up to the room and this turns out to be a somewhat luxurious suite, the best in the hotel, too good for the likes of me, but then who is going to pay a lot to visit the outskirts of Cin city the late fall? I go back down to the car, thanking them for the nice room, and head off to Walmart. It is very late, around midnight, but the parking lot has quite a lot of cars in it and the shop is not exactly full but certainly there are quite a few people there. I get some beer, surprise surprise, and some peanuts, bread stick things and some salad, and head off to the checkout. In front of me is a very porky women and her equally porky daughter and they are buying enormous mounds of porky food, including notably mounds of bagels. More examples of the pan-generational obesity which is such a feature of the currently very porky US population about which I can continue to be judgemental about. I am opposed to bagels after I found that they are basically lumps of sugar held together with a bit of bread so the only healthy bit is the hole in the middle. I am tired, and maybe that is why I am very nervous as I wait in line, just as I would feel if I had stolen something, but in this case I am for some reason tensing up in case I can’t get the beer. I don’t think I am an actual alcoholic but I certainly do like my beer. On these Tesla trips I often come up against some stupid state rule about when and where I can and can’t buy beer but fortunately in this case I can. So, relieved, I head back to the hotel, drink my beer and eat the rest of the stuff.

Day 3, Saturday

I have breakfast in the hotel, clearly not memorable as I can’t remember it, and then I head off to the Lafayette, Indiana supercharger. As I am driving down the interstate I notice a sleek red car behind me and on looking carefully it is another Tesla Model S. So I am in a Tesla platoon; using the cruise control I platoon behind a truck and a red Telsa model S with a man and women in it platoon behind me for 30 or 40 miles. So the truck driver is our unpaid assistant working both my and their brake and accelerator pedals. I wonder if they are going to charge up in Lafayette but they just carry on when I turn off- they wave to me as they go, maybe they have enough juice, I mean electrons, to get all the way to Chicago. Anyway in Lafayette I park, only Model S at the charger as usual. I go to the Stake and Shake where I get an avocado burger and fries. I am served by a very large overweight very friendly blond lady who wants to know where I come from as I have this funny accent. She keeps coming back every few minutes asking how the food is, do I want more coffee and so on. So we get into a longer conversation and she is interested in Brits for some reason and she is a big Dr. Who fan. I tell her I saw the very first Doctor Who episode in 1963 in glorious techni black and white when I was a boy in short pants and I thought at the time that it was the very best thing ever. I also point out that it ran the day after JFK was assassinated and that if that wasn’t evidence of a huge conspiracy I don’t know what was. I jest of course. She looks at me a bit oddly and I am wondering if she thinks I am totally nuts or if she is taking me seriously, in which case she must be totally nuts. Anyway she has never been to the UK, but she really wants to go. This is a shame, she should get hold of a TARDIS or possibly just an airplane ticket sometime and check the old country out, it’s odd how many Americans have this very strong bond to the UK, but have never been there.

Chicago-blob
The famous shiny reflecting blob thing in downtown Chicago

Anyway now it a short way to Chicago, driving through Gary which I remember from Steven King’s “The Stand”, but don’t see any explosions, Trash Can Man or anything else interesting and so get to downtown Chicago about 2:00 pm. I park in a side street and walk around a bit to get the lie of the land around the convention center, which is a huge place like it has to be if there are 30,000 people to deal with. I find a car park and register for the meeting which you have to do, getting a name badge thing without which they won’t let you in. Then fully badged up I spend the next couple of hours hauling stuff from my car and setting things up. This requires quite a lot of walking and hauling fairly heavy stuffs so is fairly tiring. Thankfully the one box of really heavy things I managed to organize shipping from Gainesville has showed up so by about 4:00 pm I have the booth done. While I am walking around I see a guy about my age who looks sort of familiar so I look at his name badge and it is in fact him, Harm Knot, a Dutchman with a very unlikely name to English ears. He was a faculty member in the University of Florida a few years ago where I was also, and I worked a little with him. I used to say “Harm Knot your fellow faculty member” in my best JFK impersonation which is just the sort of pithy punny kind of nonsense that I come up with. Anyway he is now working in some biotech company in Germany, and we compare life notes for a while. I then head back to my fancy hotel, about 3 miles away, and park outside and check in. I chose this AC Marriott as it has what Tesla calls a destination charger, so I can charge up for free in the car park. Though on other trips I have charged up for free in hotel car parks as there is usually a 110V plug somewhere in the wall and the hotel people don’t seem to mind if you plug in. At the check in a nice attractive young lady deals with me, and I ask about the Tesla charger. She has no idea what I am talking about or what a Tesla is or in fact that there are such things as EVs. So I am wondering if the charger actually exists, it’s the only reason I chose this particular hotel. I then get in my fancy car and go into the parking garage, where I am surprised that I have to apparently pay. I think that can’t be right, so I don’t take the ticket, and, seeing an unmarked slot on the ticket machine thing, shove my room ticket in there, which does not seem to fit at all. For some reason the gate opens anyway and I go in. I go to the room and room key now doesn’t work, I fried it somehow, so I go downstairs and tell them the key don’t work, and they give me a new one. Now I’m wondering how I can get my car out of the parking garage without a parking ticket as it is all automatic, no attendant. Oh well, deal with that later and I take the opportunity to wander around the park and downtown areas of Chicago with my cameras. I take a lot of pictures at that shiny reflecting blob thing, first time I saw that, which is a blast. Also the buildings by the river and the above ground railway lines all very Chicagoian. I’ve been to Chicago before but that was just for one day back in 1983 or 1984, so there is much to see and little time to see it. Then I go off back to the hotel where I check out the hotel bar and have a couple of beers. Various people in there start talking about various things and one clearly very drunk guy asks me where I come from and some other incoherent stuff. I avoid eye contact and he eventually leaves me alone. Other guys, travelers, salesmen of one sort or another, are talking about sport and US TV, both topics on which I know absolutely nothing, so I mostly just futz with my computer.

Day 4, Sunday

The breakfast at the hotel looks good but is expensive and anyway I am not hungry so I don’t have any. There is really not too much point in eating anyway, you only get hungry again. I had got some stuff for the meeting shipped to the hotel and this has shown up, but it turns out to be quite a large heavyish box and I don’t feel like hauling that on the bus or train. Also I am not sure how to get my car out of the parking lot because of the ticket screw up thing. Also I got up a bit late, so it is about 9:00 and the booths are supposed to open at 9:30, so I get a taxi to the convention center. The taxi driver is one of those not interested much in yaking so after a few attempts to converse about the weather and Rahm Emanuel I just look out the window. The booths have just opened when I get there, and I am at mine continuously from then to 5:00 with basically no breaks. Perhaps I should briefly describe one of these big science meetings for those of you who have never been to one. Basically about 30,000 people show up for an intense 4 day meeting which has talks about all kinds of things going on in lots of different rooms all at the same time, usually presented by professors and more senior researchers. These run over the entire 4 days of the meeting so there are thousands of talks you could go to if you could be in dozens of different places at once. There are also poster sessions where usually the younger scientists present data on poster boards and have to answer questions on whatever it was they were (or were not) doing. The posters are changed during the day so there are eight different poster sessions over 4 days meaning that several thousand posters get presented. Finally, and lowest on the academic totem pole, are the exhibitors, who are there for the entire meeting, sitting at a booth and trying to attract attention to whatever goods or services they have. Some of these end up being sort of sad, people sitting there for days with hardly anyone taking any notice of them. As I noted this is the third time I was in the low totem pole group, having deteriorated from someone who gave talks or at least a poster or two to now become a booth exhibitionist. So I noted that you have to have a striking booth and give out a lot of free stuff to get noticed. I have been showing pictures of brain cells made using my company reagents which seemed to go well and I also give out nice pens, flashlights, postcards, memory cards, tool things and other nonsense, in fact way too much nonsense. Often people come by the booth, grab hand fulls of goodies and take off, showing no interest at all in what my company is doing. Having one of these booths is fairly serious, the cheapest and smallest being over $4,000 to rent and then you have to pay extra for the carpet, desks, chairs and then you have ship your free stuff, catalogs whatever, pay for your companies travel, hotels, food, drink etc., so even a small company is going to be investing something well north of $10,000. In general these meetings get to be very tiring but usually a lot of fun. The older guys meet lots of people they used to work with, or their former students or employees or whatever, so they end up bullshitting a lot in bars and restaurants. The younger people, the students and postdocs, have a great time, being let loose often with their friends in some big city with somebody else paying and there are epic stories of booze ups, misadventures, total screw ups, sex, drugs and rock and roll and other hilarious episodes. In fact here is the easy to complete postcard my company gives out to graduate students and postdocs so they can document their various misadventures with little effort on their part, we even gave them free stamps.

EnCor-card
The back of the postcards I gave out for free

These big meetings are usually somewhere interesting and the Neuroscience meeting is often in Washington or San Diego but has also been to Miami (where it hilariously coincided with a hurricane), Atlanta, New Orleans, San Francisco, Toronto, and, this time, to Chicago. Since a lot of people will be traveling to these big meetings hotel prices go up and rooms get hard to find even in these big cities. And since people are in town anyway, there are often “satellite” meetings a day or two before or after the main event. Finally, in the evenings, there are presidential lectures where some Nobel Prize winner or someone of similar stature spouts off about something or other in a huge auditorium so thousands of people can pretend to listen and/or watch. So this combination of very large numbers of visitors suddenly in town renting hotel rooms, going to bars, restaurants and no doubt titty shows leads inevitably to the spending of an awful lot of money in a city, so cities are only too pleased to attract these meetings. The Neuroscience meeting is held in October or November when hotels in most places are normally pretty empty, so being suddenly being able to bump up prices for several days and be full is a kick in the butt for them. Who pays for all this? Well senior scientists get grants and those grants have funds in them specifically to got to meetings like this, so a typical biggish grant will have some money in it for one meeting a year for the lead investigator and perhaps a postdoc or student. So if a senior guy has three big grants he can go to a major meeting and take several of his people with him, students and postdocs, though the junior people might have to share a room or go Airbnb or something. A lot of grants come from the federal government and some come from foundations like the Alzheimer’s Association, the American Heart and the American Cancer Societies. These grants are in no sense handouts but are very difficult to get so the lead investigators at these meetings are serious people who have likely spent years working to get their funding. Having been to a lot of these meetings I think it is well justified to spend money on them as investigators can inform the world about what they have been up to, learn a lot about what everyone else is up to, set up collaborations and they may even learn something useful from the exhibitionists. And also have a good booze up and behave like a teenager again.

Anyway on the first day I meet a lot of old friends and business partners who I only ever see at these kinds of meetings, Andy Chalmers, Ina Wanner, Jan Voskuil, Gary Ciment and many others. So I set up various collaborations, things to do in future, whatever, though of course I and they forget about many of these when we get home. There were two chairs in the booth which just take up space so I try to give them away but nobody wants them so I hide them away and just stand all day. This is something I do normally, I don’t sit in my office or lab either, so it is not a problem for me. In fact there is a lot of evidence that sitting all day is very bad for you so I don’t do it anymore. Some of my friends and collaborators come by at various times and offer to cover for me while I go to the bathroom or get something to eat and that is nice of them but being basically weird I also don’t eat during the daytime and somehow I get through the whole first day without going to the bathroom this presumably being because I didn’t get anything close to my normal 15 plus cups of coffee. There is a lot of activity at my booth and I sell a surprising number of brain cell images. I also put out a lot of free stuffs which very rapidly disappears. Anyway 5:00 eventually arrives I get invited to dinner with some friends and I decide to walk the three or some miles back to the hotel to see some more of the Chicago sights. I take a few more pictures and then I meet them at their hotel a bit late as I use my iPhone GPS app which gets me to the right place in two dimensions, while Chicago is very much a 3 dimensional city so I am wandering around in some subterranean road and parking lot with the right X and Y before I find the right Z level. So we go off to some famous Chicago pizza place where we have what turns out to be really awful pizza, mine is totally burnt. One of my friends really complains about this and the poor serving guy, who is of course not the cook, is put in a bit of a spot. I helpfully opine that food is just precocious poo, so nothing to get worked up about, even the most high class food is just a smelly pile of you know what the next day. And beer, wine, whisky etc. would by extension be precocious pee, which is all true, but strangely none of the others seem to be mollified by this point of view. Anyway we leave there and go back to one of the guys hotels. We blather on some more, I get introduced to some apparently important people including a cute Italian lady, but I forget who they were exactly, though I do remember drinking some whisky with them. Back to my hotel very latish, sat and did emails in the bar again, again got into the story of my life with some of the guys who are all salesmen of one kind or another and made it to bed still able to take my clothes off, not bad.

Day 5, Monday

The next day I decide I will drive to the convention center so I have to figure out how to get the car out of the parking garage, which turns out to be not a problem, the people at the front desk in the hotel seemed to be quite used to dealing with total idiots like me. Anyway this time I meet up with Eric Johnson, John Baron, Karen Padgett, Cristy Sigidroth, Michele Lemons, Lucia Notterpek, Dave Fromholt, Raul Diaz-Arastia, Tim the student from somewhere and no doubt many  others. So I have more of the same kinds of possibly useful conversations as the day before. I tell Michele that I am now retired, and she says I was already retired last time I met her at last years meeting which I had of course forgotten, so I opine that I am now even more retired, which gets a laugh. The day goes on like before, people buying surprising numbers of brain cell pictures, grabbing astonishing amounts of free stuff and 5:00 pm eventually rolls round again. I had been asked to have dinner with people from two companies I deal with, so I show off by taking them to the restaurant in the Tesla, which I accelerate producing the usual mixture of shock, delight and fear from my passengers. They get another shock when I stop at some traffic lights and don’t notice that the car is rolling backwards til one of them shouts out and I put the brakes on. Then I get to my hotel and go into the wrong parking garage entrance which is for a Trader Joe’s, so I get out of that and find the right one but manage to bang one of the rear view mirrors on the wall, no damage done though. But they all now doubt my general competence and I do sort of too, but wonder if it is because I am just tired or dementia is setting in or what. Anyway we walk to a Mexican restaurant and have a fun time bullshitting away in between stuffing ourselves with burritos, tacos, Dos Equis and Modelo. Some of the talk is the usual pure nonsense that people get into but there is some serious talk about what antibodies to make in future and some discussion about mergers, take overs, that sort of thing, though it’s not really clear who might be taking over who. My company is now noticeable enough that other companies are interested in buying it, and I am also thinking that maybe, being noticeable enough,  I could gobble up another company, after I’m done with the tacos and burritos. Stuff to think about in future, then we all wonder off to our hotels.

That night I have a strange dream. I am with an old girl friend in my Tesla and I am trying to park somewhere and my foot spazes on the accelerator instead of the brake somehow and I therefore somehow manage to drive the car into a swimming pool. Strangely I don’t get wet and the old girlfriend just vanishes I suppose, as she is no longer part of the story. Anyway then I get into a real anxiety thing about how I am going to get the car out of the swimming pool, thinking about trying to winch it out with a come-a-long thing, and realizing that this probably impossible with the car being so heavy. Then I realize how all my photogear will be totally destroyed, reflecting that my old Nikon F could survive a dunking being mechanical, but a digital D800, as I know from personal experience, is totally destroyed. And I expect an electric car would be totally trashed if it got submerged. I also figure out where I would have to tow the car assuming I could get it out of the swimming pool, and the swimming pool is somehow connected to a garage, a bar, and round the corner a warehouse, a workshop with a bunch of big machines and there are obstacles everywhere. So it looks pretty much impossible to get the car out. I am seriously worried about how I will deal with all this, who do you call to get a car out of a swimming pool and drag it through a garage, a bar and round a corner to a warehouse then a workshop full of big machines? Eventually I wake up and am initially really worried about this big mess. Then I am enormously relieved when I suddenly realize that all this never happened. I wonder why I dreamed all this nonsense, maybe it is because I almost damaged the car, which makes me realize that cars are mortal too.

Day 6, Tuesday

No breakfast again. Drive to the convention center, more of the same kind of stuff as before, I am running out of a lot of free stuff, in particular the one thousand fancy company logo pens I had are almost all gone, so I institute a policy of only giving them out to people who talk to me. Make some more useful connections, hopefully, and the posters are going like hot cakes, people hearing about them from other people and coming by the booth. I have a lot of cheap posters printed by a wrapping paper company which I can sell for $5 since they cost $0.50 to print, this being the 1,000% mark up typical in the antibody market. I also have a few more fancy ones printed on high class paper and I sell these also, but at $25. The classy ones all go by the end of the second day, so next time I need to bring a big pile of these. These are extremely cheap by art market prices, but they also actually cost very little to print since I have this big printer thing so I can do them myself. So 5:00 again comes around and I arrange to meet a collaborator from UCLA, Ina Wanner, who I have been working with for a while. We go off in the Tesla and she is also impressed and/or terrified by the instant acceleration. I park at my hotel without messing up in any obvious way this time and we go to a fancy Indian (from India) Restaurant and eat far too much of the runny and spicy food, bhajis, chapatis etc. Well I like Indian and it is much harder to get in the US than it was in the UK. So we talk about grants, papers, future work and so on and she gets a taxi back to her hotel. That evening I ask a very competent black lady in the check in at the hotel where the Tesla charger is and she tells me it does in fact exist, there are in fact two of them in the hotel parking garage. I find I had driven past them several times and not noticed, so I plug in to charge up. These are the small 40A units, so charge at about 30 miles per hour, easily fast enough to get fully charged overnight. This is free and the basic reason I went to this hotel. However it is the only thing there that was free, parking overnight was $50, breakfast was I don’t know what since I never had any but not free and the room was over $300 per night.

Day 7, Wednesday

Last day at the meeting, so I pack up all my stuffs in the hotel and get it into the car, being careful not to leave something or other behind in the hotel room which is one of the few things I have a real talent for. So I drive off to the convention center and park there, which is also not free between $25 and $40 each time. At these big meetings the last day, particularly in the afternoon is usually pretty dead, as a lot of people have left, but this time for whatever reason it is still pretty busy so I am there till 5:00 on the dot. More of the same with people coming by, getting what free stuffs is left, buying posters, blah blah about this and that and so on. In talking to one group I say that the $5 brain cell images might be sold, on the last day, for $2 if they are used only as wrapping paper and not as poster images. I soon realize that this is not too smart as several people come by wanting $2 wrapping paper, not the same item as a $5 poster image. I say OK but I will follow them home and look through their windows to make sure they are not using the images as posters, which amuses these people and of course I am never going to do that. And anyway $2 for something that cost $0.50 to make is not such a bad deal. I do find time to bond with the occupants of two neighboring booths, one making microdialysis equipment and the other making antibody assay kits. The assay kit people are in a biggish Chinese company but have a facility in Pleasantown, CA, which I opine should be very pleasant, but I am told is actually fairly boring. I get the guy from Pleasantown to take a picture of me and his attractive boothmate, Wendy also from Pleasantown, see below.

Neuro-Chicago
Me and a pretty lady called Wendy from the neighboring booth at the Chicago Neuroscience food fight thing. I am the camouflaged biped on the right, you can also see some of my brain cells. The number of the booth is the year of the Franco-Prussian war, easy to remember, 1870.

At 5:00 the show is finally over and it is quite astonishing to see how quickly all the booths disappear, the exhibitionists are only too eager to get out of there as soon as possible. All these banners and things are collapsible and within a few minutes most of them are collapsed already. I put a lot of my collapsibles in the box I got shipped from Gainesville and, since I gave a lot of stuff away or sold it, there is a lot less stuff to deal with so I don’t have to carry too much back to the car. I debate about staying another day in Chicago, but decide not to but hope to make it there again sometime. Then I head out, and since I was fully charged in the morning I have well over 200 miles range. I get to the Lafayette charger like on the way out and then get to the outskirts of Indianapolis before I decide to pack it in for the night and I stop at the Wingate Inn at the airport. I email this old friend John Glenney and in searching for his last email to me find he had emailed me a few days ago but I missed it. I get ridiculous numbers of emails these days to three different email addresses and most of them are about Viagra, Cialis or that someone in Nigeria is going to give me $26,000,000 so it’s easy to overlook the very small percentage that I would actually like to read. So anyway I email him back, get his address and say I will meet him there about 12:00 the next day.

Day 8, Thursday

IMG_1411
Trucker parking in an attempt to piss off liberal commie tree hugging Tesla owners like me and actually succeeding. The first station closest to the camera is where the professional looking lady’s black Tesla is not there anymore

I get up and on the road, drive a ways and feeling hungry so I stop at the same Steak and Shake in Lafayette Indiana again while I am charging up. I wonder if the large blond Dr. Who fan lady will be there again, but she isn’t. Instead there is a nice Iranian or something related kind of lady, who also asks me where I come from like most people do. I go into the usual Nottingham, England, Robin Hood stuffs and then eat a burger and fries. Then I head off to the Indianapolis charger and there is a huge great truck loaded with pickups in front of it. There is a black Model S charging, and there is just enough room, with a few inches to spare, for me to get in so I can charge also. I back up and start charging and the lady in the Model S comes out to talk. She is tall, thin, short white hair, 40ish, attractive dressed in jeans and a tight top, very perky little boobs and very business like, I would guess an MD or something similarly professional. I look at the big truck and my first comment is “Assholes”. She says that was her first thought also. I ask her if she has some sticky notes that we may leave a suitably pithy message on the window of the truck, describing in some detail where we would like him or possibly her to place his or possibly her truck in future, though it likely would not fit. It’s annoying that for some reason he (most likely a he of course) deliberately blocked off the Tesla chargers when he (see previous bracketed comment) could have parked in plenty of other places without blocking off anybody. Maybe part of the backlash against rich eco freak tree hugger commie liberal types like me. Anyway she says no she has no stickies so that is no go. I make a mental note somewhere in my disturbed cortex that stickies would be a good thing to carry around in the car, then suggest that there might be one of those “how is my driving” things and a phone number on the back, but there isn’t. So anyway I take a cell phone picture of the truck and so does she, and she says she will send hers to Elon, who she may know for all I can tell. Then she takes off, possibly not quite sure if a slobby looking foreigner like me is safe, I don’t know. So I get a coffee etc., and look for truckers, but I don’t see any overweight middle aged stereotyped white men anywhere so I guess they are in the hotel or somewhere, either that or teenage girls can now be truckers, as there were several of those around. This seems unlikely so I don’t confront anybody and so head off to my friends place in Lexington, missing out the Cincinnati charger as I got enough charge in Indianapolis to get the whole way.

I go there and meet him, he looks a little older but healthy enough and I see his Tesla P85D, black and clean unlike my dirty 85D. He is in a cabin he is building on his farm, which is apparently 200 acres or so in Georgetown, the most horsey part of very horsey Kentucky. He takes me off to a big shed where he has a 40A Tesla charger thing and I plug my Tesla in, and then we go off to a restaurant, where we eat some stuff and I have a couple of beers. He has no beer which is perhaps more prudent as it is like 1:00 pm, but once again I can count on my superbly conditioned liver. He is into horses for some reason, so then we go to the Lexington racetrack horsey place and look at some horses and then we bet on them and then go to look at some races. I have no idea what is going on, all the horses look the same to me except some are very dark brown and some are more light brown, they all have 4 legs and a head at one end as far as I could see, and none are blue or purple which I would have noticed. So I bet randomly on horse things and I manage to win something somehow but then lose it all. John manages to win $300 plus though, and I get a picture of him with his winnings.

John-Money
John wins some money on the horsey things by good judgement and/or dumb luck

I met him in Germany when we were both Postdocs in the Klaus Weber lab (guess who made that Wikipedia page), and we became great friends in the three years we overlapped there. I kept in contact with him on and off over the years, but had lapsed a bit since about 2012, and, just after I got my Tesla, I was wondering what he was up to, so I Googled him. To my surprise, the first thing that came up was something about him and his older daughter driving across the US in guess what, a Tesla model S! They were the first people to go New York to Fremont, the Tesla factory, only using Superchargers all the way, which had only just been put in days before. Here is one of the articles describing this and they actually did it before Elon Musk did the same trip a few days later, so John got to be famous, somewhat.

Anyway, he left Germany in 1982 and went to the Salk Institute in San Diego for a few years, then to the University of Kentucky. While in the Salk he had made some great antibodies, which he somewhat illegally took with him to Kentucky, where he started selling them in his own little company, Transduction Labs. This took off dramatically and he quit UK to work in the company full time, which he did for a few years, and then sold the company for I would guess several tens of million dollars and so retired from science and business. He then went into the horsey breeding and training thing, but then had some problems with the tiny little jockeys, who are apparently not only severely restricted in the vertical dimension but also a corrupt bunch of hoodlums, causing him some problems, and so he quit that too after a few years. Now he seems to be busy doing various projects on his land in Kentucky and some land in California where he is trying to grow grapes. So his life is sort of an eerie parallel to mine, starting an antibody business and quitting the University, except I am clearly much much slower. His interest and passion for electric cars was completely independent from mine, so it was sort of astonishing that we were both not only into electric cars but also multiple cars- me on my second one, he having had a Tesla Roadster right when they first came out and then various Model S cars. Also we both independently developed a passionate hatred of the fossil fuel industries, not something that was a big issue in 1980-1982. Also we are both into solar power, I got some on my company building and he having some at his house. Strange, very strange, GMTA or FND, take your choice, but further compelling evidence for the Truman show theory of life (vide super and/or look above).

Anyway, he pays for everything, even my bets on the horsey things. Of course he is a multimillionaire, but hey, so am I. Granted, he is a double figures multimillionaire at least but I am just maybe a modest single figure multimillionaire, but I can obviously pay my way some of the time. I know he is very competitive so I wonder if he is trying to show me who is the more alpha alpha male. He was definitely a better scientist than me, in fact he was really outstanding, though I was actually also pretty good, but in a more fumbling, learn as you go, first approximation, British muddling through, persistence is more important than competence kind of way. I was better at some things though, I learned some bastardized version of German in 1980-82, while he didn’t, and I am much more computer savvy then him. But I am not that competitive, I sort of don’t care much if people are better at things then me, or if they get paid more, or have bigger houses or whatever. In England we have so many examples of people living fantastic easy lives simply because they were lucky enough to plop out of the right vagina, take the vast family of royal hangers on as just one example. As long as I have enough of whatever we are talking about I am fine. As a postdoc different people, John being one, were getting paid wildly different amounts for doing the same job as I was, but I did not care much, I was getting paid plenty. As a faculty member I never argued with my chairman, asked for a raise or whatever, while many of my colleagues would go to great lengths to proclaim how great they were and how much they deserved a raise. And I worked in a medical school in the US where the MD faculty are often just not that smart but still got paid 2 or 3 times what a poor feeble PhD like me was getting. Good for them. So I basically don’t get jealous, though most other people do. Why is that? Possibly I’m so egocentric I just don’t give a rats ass what other people do, this might also explain why I am very hard to insult as I don’t really care about other peoples views on my numerous and obvious failings. Life is not fair, get over it, I did. So why did I buy this fancy Tesla car in the first place, was that not to show off my alpha male status or something? Well not really, remember my two previous cars were a Honda Insight and a Nissan Leaf, both techno marvels when they came out, but hardly status machines. I would never ever have bought any of those other stupid great status cars, Mercedes, BMW, Lamborgini all that crap. Which reminds me of a very bad joke, what is the difference between a Mercedes and a VW? Answer, Lady Di would never be seen dead in a VW. Anyway, I bought the Tesla because it is a really, really great car, I admire the technology, it does not support the evil fossil fuel industry and I want to support Tesla as it is a significant part of a viable way forward to get the world off of all this ridiculous fossil burning shit, about which nothing good can be said. Interestingly my Tesla is often quite dirty since I live down a dirt road, and I can’t be bothered to waste my time cleaning it very often, and it only gets dirty again anyway. People who do buy cars for status reasons are astounded and somewhat offended that anyone could not keep such a fancy car spotlessly clean, well yarbles to them, I don’t have my car to please anyone but me.

Anyway John was a really great scientist so I was surprised when he just quit science. I’m even more surprised that he apparently is not keeping up on what has been going on recently and I give him my take on the most awesome stuffs to have been done in the last few years. In my view one is optogenetics, where you can get a rhodopsin family protein originally from a bacteria or plant cell and express it in some other kind of cell, usually a neuron, in either rat, mouse, fruit fly, worm, fish, human or whatever, and get it inserted into the cell membrane. So then by flashing the right wavelength of light you can make the rhodopsin molecule open up to make a hole in the membrane and, depending on what kind of rhodopsin it is, make the cell take in or let out one or another kind or ion. This sort of sounds like a “so what” to the layman, but in practice it means you can turn on or off neurons in real time without sticking an electrode into them and believe me it allows scientists to do all kinds of experiments that would be impossible or difficult any other way. Some version of this might be used one day to treat Parkinson’s, Alzheimer’s, who knows? The main guy in this area is Karl Deisseroth, an excellent bet for a Nobel in the next 5 years, though others were involved also. The other big thing, actually much bigger thing, is the CRISPR/Cas9 gene editing stuffs. The Cas9 is an bacterial enzyme which cuts DNA if it is guided to the right place on the DNA by a specific RNA sequence which hybridizes with specific DNA sequences. So you can design a RNA sequence to take Cas9 to and cut more or less anywhere in a genome. Since it is simple to express both Cas9 and the guiding RNA using viruses or other means it is possible to make designer cuts in DNA very easily. Multiple cuts are possible, so you can remove defective genes or gene segments. And adding a piece of DNA to replace the bit you cut out is also possible, so it now becomes feasible to actually repair genes. The consequences of this are fairly astonishing if you think about it, correcting genetic defects and potentially permanently improving the human genome. Of course this is likely to generate a lot of controversy, though most people have no clue about this. Some who do, who have family members with diseases like cystic fibrosis or muscular dystrophy, can’t understand why scientists don’t get off their bottom bits and just do it. Others have some sort religious reason for not doing it which to me makes no sense at all as religions are not based on anything sensible in my humble opinion. Of course there are legitimate ethical concerns particularly as correcting genes is likely to be expensive so the evil Kochs can do it but poor Joe Sixpack can’t. Anyway, the main person behind this appears to be Jennifer Doudna, another sure bet for a Nobel in 5 to 10 years, though again others are involved. I also did not mention to John that in 2010 already the J. Craig Venter Institute arguably made the first synthetic life form, not a minor breakthrough but one the public does not seem to have picked up on yet. I am not surprised that the average person is unaware of all this, but this guy, a very talented scientist? Surely at least the Readers Digest version of all this is covered in the press? It occurs to me he is just trying to figure out how much I know about all this and if I can coherently explain it, as I said he was always a competitive kind of guy. I dunno, I’ll ask him next time I see him.

Then we go to dinner with him, Kim, his wife, and his 8 year old daughter, and eat some Mexican. I mean Mexican food, not a Mexican person, that would be illegal even in Kentucky. The restaurant has jellyfish in it in a huge tank, maybe 12 feet tall (the tank, not the jellyfish), which is a bit unusual, especially being that Kentucky must be over a thousand miles from any possible sea and Mexican restaurants usually leave jellyfish out of tacos and burritos as far as I know. The restaurant owner apparently breeds the jellies so I ask him about comb jellies which are even more awesome transparent blobby things than jellyfish, and the guy knows what they are but does not have any. He seems a little challenged by my questions, Americans often get defensive when Brits ask them things, there is clearly some inferiority complex which I have often noticed. Anyway, Kim just bought a Microsoft Surface computer thing for the kid, and I mess around with it a bit, noting that it basically does not do anything unless you pay for it and then I rant and rave about the unspeakable horrors of Windows 10, which I actually don’t know too much about, but that does not seem to stop me. I do use Windows 7, which is adequate but not great and I have had horrible experiences with Vista, 95 and 98, which make me think that Microsoft stuff is over priced and under qualitied. I use both PCs and Macs, and neither is perfect, but in my experience Macs give you a lot less trouble. I tell them they should get one of those Google portables which are cheap and have perfectly workable clones of Word, Excel and Powerpoint and you can save the files on the Google drive basically for free, and this is in fact what some of the kids friends are using at school. So I dunno if they got one of those, but later I did, buying an Asus Chrome Google machine which is fairly awesome, a small combo portable and iPad clone thing. I bought it on my company account because, well, I could, and I might even use it one day. Later John asks me if I want to spend the night, but I am feeling like getting on, so he takes me back to where my car is charging, now fully charged and I say my goodbyes and head off into the darkness, completely in the wrong direction as it turns out. I retrace my path and head south for a few hours and spend the night in a Hampton Inn in London KY. As usual I manage to get some beer to relax my fevered brain so I sleep like a log, except that large fungi don’t seem to grow on me, possibly I am not damp enough.

Day 9, Friday

From the Hampton Inn after another totally not memorable breakfast I set off to the Knoxville charger, charge up, go to the Target there, get a coffee, not much happens, then on to Chattanooga, where, despite having been there before I go into the wrong parking entrance and have to go out and the large black and friendly ticket collector lady tells me where I should go, but politely. So I drive round again, try a different entrance but still the wrong one, so I go past the same lady again and apologize again, promising I will get it right the next time. So there are two parking lots and you can’t get from one to the other and for some reason I kept going to the wrong one. Idiotic, this is the third time I charged here, so how did I manage to find the right entrance the first two times? Anyway I finally find the chargers and mine is the third Tesla there! This is only the second time this has happened. I go into the terminal and get a coffee, do the restroom, look at some art work and head back, and now there is yet another Tesla, a silver one, this is the first time I have seen four Teslas at a supercharger. The family in the silver one just came in and the driver is a Hispanic guy who I talk to and his mother who does not seem to be able to speak English. He has what I assume are his wife and kids, and grandma takes a picture of me and him by his Tesla. He just bought it that day so he does not know too much about the superchargers and so on, so I fill him in on that, and I tell him that four Teslas at a supercharger is highly unusual at least in this part of the country at this point in time. So then I head off again.

4-Tesla
4 Teslas at the Chattanooga supercharger,  first time I seen so many charging at once, but obviously the way things will be in future, mores the pity

There are two superchargers in Atlanta, the Decatur one I used on the way out, and another one at the Atlanta Station, some huge great shopping center mall thing. So I decided to check out the mall one, good for my general experience. It was the hardest one to find ever, since the charger is in a large underground parking garage and the iPhone GPS and the Tesla map thing do not work in three dimensions as I noted above and also tend to crap out underground. I drive around randomly for maybe 20 minutes, and wonder why Tesla can’t signpost these chargers so you could find them a bit easier. So anyway I finally blunder across it and plug in with one other Tesla there and wander around upstairs in this huge shopping mall while it is charging up, eating some Mexican food in a Moe’s Southwest Grill, which has become the place I stop on these kind of trips. After that I am quite tired, too tired to go on and anyway I want to see the Hillary Clinton interview with Rachel Maddow, which is on at 9:00 on MSNBC, the day after the Benghazi hearings. So I head off to a hotel, a Days Inn in Forsyth GA, not the same hotel as last time, but the same town, which I did not realize at the time. I naturally get some beer so I can relax and watch these two smart and coherent individuals, much in contrast to the craziness on the replicant side, what with Trump, Carson, Cruz et al. Hillary just got sort of grilled by the ridiculous Benghazi committee, but the grill was clearly out of gas and she did not look even a bit cooked. Basically the replicants were trying desperately to make her look bad somehow, and failing since some of their own now admit this Benghazi bullshit is all just an attempt to damage her. I like Hillary, though I like Bernie Sanders too and I think Americans could do with a bit more socialism, which they clearly don’t understand. In fact the only reason I came to the US in the first place was socialism, in my case the most important socialism being the Universities, funding of basic research, libraries and other scientific infrastructure almost all of which was payed for by the federal government. Of course I am not mentioning the interstate highways, national parks, museums, air traffic controllers, postal services, police and other many good things that US socialism does. Granted, US socialism does some really stupid stuff too, notably like funding a huge, bloated and inefficient military which is an enormous waste of money, the biggest sucker on the federal teat by far. It didn’t do anything to guard against 9/11 and it’s presence just encourages military intervention by less smart presidents like GWB for example. And whenever the military does get used it tends to botch things up and leaving a huge mess behind it. Vietnam, Afghanistan, Iraq, all big messes costing millions of lives and achieving nothing good unless you are a member of the military industrial complex. The US would be far better off just disbanding it, nobody in their right mind would want to invade the US anyway, what with all these nutty heavily armed white guys everywhere.

Day 10, Saturday

Last day, not memorable, so head off to the Tifton charger, coffee, bathroom, another exploding fart attack, enough charge to get to the Lake City charger in about 20 minutes, then off to Lake City, 10 more minutes and I have enough to get home. Tacho at 17526, so 2,408 miles in all.

Conclusions from this trip

So it is clearly not a problem to do a very long distance trip in a Tesla at no cost for transportation, and, if you do a few you get better at it. But that was the conclusion from my previous bloggings also, here if you really want to know. So there were no problems at all with charging, it has never happened that I had to wait to charge because all the chargers were occupied. The highest number I have ever seen was 4 Teslas at a 6 charger station. However this is likely to change. My Tesla has a number which tells you how many have been made and is a bit more than 70,000, so about 70,000 had been made at the end of March 2015, when I got mine. In 2015 Tesla sold about 50,000 Model S and a few hundred Model X, so as of today, early January 2016, there are about 110,000 Teslas on the road. About 60% of these have been sold in the US I read somewhere. I have noticed that I do see another Tesla at a charger more frequently then I used to, and Tesla will unveil the Model 3 in March 2016, for delivery in 2 years or so. So there are going to be more and more Model S and Model X cars over the next couple of years and when the Model 3 comes on line it might be much more difficult to do the type of trip I described here. Maybe this is the fleeting golden age of EVs, I had better make the best of it. Still the trip cost nothing in gas but there were other costs I had not anticipated. The Chicago hotel did have a free Tesla charger, but the hotel was very expensive, I had to pay $50 on top of the hotel bill per night just to park there, and then had to pay to park at the convention center. Clearly you want somewhere reasonably safe to park your expensive Tesla. Next time I might just get a less central hotel or an Airbnb with a garage. But the basic concept of the Tesla as a great 4 wheeled distance reducing module is confirmed, it works fine and is very practical. Anyway I live and learn.

Useful Career Advice to New PhDs

This is basically a very modified version of a convocation speech I gave a few years ago, the occasion being the graduation of a bunch of new PhDs in biomedical sciences. So anyway, I am an older scientist/professor who went through all the typical career nonsense of grad student > postdoc > ass professor > asso professor > full (or fool) professor > beyond. Here is my somewhat cynical but I think quite accurate take on the academic career.

So, students, you have just got through graduate school- this was a fun time- you got some training, got a lot of new friends, no doubt had all kinds of travel, alcohol, drug and sexual adventures and actually may have done some serious lab work. By graduating you showed you have the ability to do something in the lab and, importantly, write some more or less plausible and coherent record of it afterwards. This sounds simple enough but a surprising number of people just cannot do it. I have friends who started their PhDs with me, way back in the 80’s, and I still see them sometimes and ask them “how’s the thesis going” and they go “great, making real progress”, or “I’m now on chapter 4” or somesuch- this being about 40 years on. It seems unlikely that they will graduate before they retire, but they might, who knows, so then they would be ready for a 40 year post doctoral fellowship I suppose. By the age of 100 they could be ready for an assistant professorship, but getting tenure at the age of 140 is a stretch unless there is some big breakthrough in gerontological research. In summary the only really important thing about the PhD is actually finishing it. So rejoice in the fact that you did, if in fact you manage to, PhD of course actually stands not for incomprehensible Latin gobbeldygook but “Phinally Done”.

Which reminds me of a joke. How many graduate students does it take to change a light bulb? Answer: one, but it takes at least 8 years to do it. Thank you Garrison Keillor.

The Post Doctoral Fellow

Your next step is likely a job as a post doctoral fellow. This is the best period in your scientific life, so enjoy it, it won’t last. You are trained, can write, don’t cost much and will leave fairly soon, so your mentor can be really nice to you and has a reasonable chance of getting you to do something more or less substantial. This is the time in your life when have great potential and only a small record- as you get older your potential declines and your record may go one way or the other, but is statistically unlikely to be Nobel prize winning stellar, so make the best of where you are now. It’s likely the only time in your career you will be in demand on the job market. Somebody else set up the lab, pays the bills, does all the administration, so you can just mess about on some project or other. No teaching. No real responsibilities. I used my postdoc period to go off and live in another country, Germany, which was cool, in fact it was mostly freezing. The lab I went to was the very best in the world in what I was interested in at the time, and I wondered if I was going to make it there or not, as I was unsure if I had any real talent for science. I figured that if I made it, fine, and if I didn’t then at least I would quickly know that I should take up some other line of work, like construction or something. So I think it is good advice to try to do your postdoc in the very best lab you possibly can. Whatever royal exudate the best labs secrete will be bounteously deposited on you and the lavish aromas and unguents will carry you for many years after you leave. This is of course not the way things should be, but, well, it’s the way they are. Aim high… As Peter Ustinov said “there is nothing worse than aiming low- and missing”. Try to cut down on the booze, drugs and sex as you should now be demonstrating to the world that you can do something or other useful- nobody expects too much from a grad student, but a postdoc should produce a few decent papers, especially if you managed to insinuate yourself into an excellent lab. So if you are lucky after 3 years or so of cheap labor you should have a few good papers some in very good journals and with excellent coworkers, which is why you tried to get into an excellent lab in the first place. So you might now actually be a viable candidate for a real actual full time academic job.

The Interview for Assistant or Ass Professor

In academia the first real job is the assistant professor- this is a big step. Here are some excellent pieces of advice on how to game the system to your advantage, hell, they worked for me.

Be honest even if it does not come naturally: So look at the various adds for jobs and get together a good looking CV and send it off to any job that looks halfway interesting, you never know. One important piece of advice is never put anything on your CV that is not actually true. Your CV might be a bit exaggerated, that might be OK, and you might miss out things that don’t make you look good, like that unfortunate armed robbery incident, but don’t lie. If there is a single lie on your CV and a reader notices it you are done. One lie brings into question everything else and you won’t get an interview, and word might get around so you don’t get interviews in other places either. When I was looking for a job it was much harder to check things as you had to go to the library and open actual journals to see if an article existed or not. I knew a couple of scientists who put non-existent papers supposedly in high profile journals on their CVs, banking on people not bothering to check, or, if they did check and couldn’t find the article, figuring that the journal number or pages must have been typed wrong. With the internets you can’t get away with that any more, and even then these guys eventually got found out and booted out of science. The other thing is if you put on your CV you are an expert in something, sexing rotifers or whatever, don’t do that unless you actually are. A lot of people will say they did this or that, when what they mean is that someone in the lab did this or that but it seems like they could bloat the CV by taking some credit for it. Elon Musk says when he sees a specific claim like that he asks a lot of detailed questions about, in this case, sexing rotifers, and it soon becomes apparent whether an individual has actually done it themselves and knows exactly where a rotifers testicles and other whatnots are or just listened to people in a bar talking about it. So don’t bullshit, be prepared to answer very detailed questions about whatever you claim to be an expert in. Again, if you are obviously a bullshiter in one part of your CV a search committee would think the whole thing is likely to be totally bullshited from top to bottom, and you won’t get the job.

Timing of your interview: So you send in your CV and you get some invitations for interviews. Find out when the series of interviews are happening for each job and say you are very busy and find out when the latest possible date is that you can be interviewed. This creates the impression (entirely incorrect in my case) that you are very busy and much in demand, and also ensures that the search committee has you fresh in mind when they finally meet to figure out who to offer the job to. I sort of figured this out myself as outlined below, and was quite interested to find out recently that some actual data shows that in a typical university hire the person hired is almost always one of the last three interviewed, and the last person interviewed is more than twice as likely to get hired as the first. In fact this is generally true for any kind of job search as I found out from this article. A typical university search looks at 6-8 candidates over several months and by the end of that the search committee, who are usually only human and may well be alcoholics, drug abusers or just plain senile, will have basically almost no recollection of the first couple of candidates.

Dress well: So dress well or figure out how to get away with not dressing well. When I first came to the US for interviews I had been told that ‘Mercans were very informal, did not dress up, scoffed formality etc. So for my first interviews I showed up in tatty jeans and tea shirts in some cases with more holes in them than were necessitated by the various relatively normal protuberances of my body. This seemed to surprise my hosts a bit, and I clearly remember a look of shock and/or horror when I identified myself to one potential chairman who was waiting for me at an airport and could not believe that this apparent derelict was somehow a candidate for a job in his prestigious department. So you are clearly expected to show up in some sort of poncy suit at least for the interview itself, and you also have to do stuff like comb your hair, wash your neck and do other cosmetic things that have no bearing on whether you can do the actual job or not. On that particular trip I was in the car with the chairman going back to my hotel on the second day and he told me we were going to a real fancy upscale restaurant and could I get a collar and tie. Of course the search committee like to go to fancy restaurants since they don’t have to pay for it, so I should have anticipated this. But I was somewhat stuck as I had neither a collar nor a tie with me- in fact at the time I did not even own a tie. So just before the car stopped I said to him, “er, I forgot to pack a tie, do you think I could borrow one?” He said, yes of course. And I stood up to get out of the car and looked around the downtown area, and realized it was late in the evening, shops were basically closed, Siri was not invented yet and so I said “oh, and one more thing, can I borrow a jacket?” So anyway he sorta looked at me very strange, but said yes and he did bring along a jacket. Unfortunately he was a big fat man so I looked very strange in this monstrously oversize jacket which drooped off of my shoulders and engulfed my skinny arms. Anyway I did not get that job, but I did notice I was the very first one interviewed, which got me thinking a bit. So for my next interview trip I thought I had better buy a suit and also try to get interviewed later in the pack. I just hate suits, I always look like a strangely dorky stick insect in one and I feel like a total fraud, as I am just naturally a slob and a suit is just hopeless attire if you want to take the engine out of a motorcycle, chop down a tree or run a western blot, which are things I do, but not while wearing a suit. In fact I generally avoid anything that requires any formality at all. But anyway, a mans gotta do what a mans gotta do and so I bought a suit, and I looked like a giant prehistoric grasshopper in it. So I went off for my second round of interviews, making sure I was the last candidate. So I met my future chairman at the airport, who was I think also a little surprised at my as usual disheveled appearance as I was traveling in my usual slobby jeans and tea shirt. So I was talking to him at the baggage collection, and joy of joys, the airline lost my luggage! And my ridiculous crap suit was in that luggage!! So I had to do my interviews and seminar in my slobby clothes and I even got brownie points for putting up with this problem, when of course I was delighted about it. They were saying “he lost his suit and he didn’t let that phase him at all, what a guy!” So I’d advise you, if you don’t want to dress up in this fake and pseudo way, pack your important stuff in a carry-on bag and pretend to loose your checked baggage, that’s what I will do if I ever need another job.

Ask good questions: On interviews you will be wheeled out in front of all these people you have never heard of who were doing things that you likely will have no interest in or knowledge about whatsoever. These will typically be back to back 30 minute or even longer sessions with a plethora of faculty taking up two entire days. So they will be talking in great detail about guinea pig gall stones or grasshopper knee caps or something that you know nothing about, and in fact you likely prefer it that way. In my case I was also jet lagged so it was extremely difficult to figure out what the hell they were talking about or to show any interest at all. Also, I’m fairly sure I am an undiagnosed ADHD sufferer, having this well before it was fashionable, so I can’t normally focus on anything for more than about 15 minutes, even when not jet lagged. In my case after the first few minutes of each session my mind kept going completely blank, they could have been speaking Klingon for all I knew. But eventually they will stop talking about whatever it was and they will expect you to ask intelligent questions. So you could ask “what was all that about?” or “why are you even doing any of this” or “I don’t comprehend any of that so could your repeat it all very slowly”. But of course you can’t be actually honest, especially if you really want the job. However if you are really stuck there are a few questions you can ask; my favorite is “what’s the time course of that?” Whatever it was they were talking about it has to have some sort of time course. The guinea pig gall stones have to get bigger or smaller with time as do the grasshopper knee caps, or maybe they even stay the same, but they still have to have a time course. So they will then go on for 5 minutes about how they get bigger or smaller or stay the same or whatever, so you can phase out again while nodding vigorously to make out you are actually listening. You can then ask “are you going to publish this?” this creates the (likely erroneous) impression that you think whatever it was might be worth publishing. They will then go on about what they published already or why they didn’t or what they are writing up now or will write up or whatever, so you can fix them with an apparently interested stare for a few more minutes with your mind back firmly in neutral. So these two questions will likely keep them going on for the 5 -10 more minutes you need to get to the end of the 30 minutes, when you can then go on to the next interview, where you do the same thing again. So the search committee will get together after you’ve gone and they”ll say “yeah he seemed interested, he asked some questions”. Hopefully they won’t realize it was always the same two questions.

Marital status: The search committee is of course mostly older men so you can use that to your advantage. If you’re a man, claim to have an attractive wife, and complain that you are very happily married but you are very worried as she has this thing for older well educated academic men. Then show pictures of her in a swimsuit, and you should be able to download a suitable image from Backpages if you don’t happen to have one. If you’re a women, you could make out that you are single or separated and you have a thing about older academic men which you can’t seem to control. In my case I was a single man, about 30, and several times I had to make it clear I was not gay, which was a no no in those days. So I had to say I did chase women, but obviously not very successfully as I had apparently not actually managed to snag one yet. So I was not in the optimal position as the mostly male members of the search committee had no apparent possibility of sleeping with my wife or girlfriend, but I might want to sleep with theirs. So I just had to make out I worked all the time, didn’t have time for women or sex, especially including wives of faculty members. Perhaps nowadays being a gay male might be advantageous, especially, as is increasingly likely these days, if some of the search committee members are proudly and rampantly gay males. A gay female might have a harder time as heterosexual or gay male committee members could not expect to get anywhere with her, and there is not likely go be a gay female on the search committee, though of course that is changing.

Assistant or Ass Professor

So you may eventually get a job as assistant professor and you think your troubles are over. Forget that, this is a very tough time, even worse now than when I was one. The best advice is keep a very low profile and don’t volunteer for anything. If you do get suckered into something do it very well so you get brownie points but also make sure that you get to organize whatever it was in future so you can unload most of the work on somebody else. Either that or figure out a way to immediately get out of it by faking illness  or something similar. So one reason why assistant professors are called ass professors is that a lot of them are asses, who basically in their naive, bright-eyed and bushy tailed way get snookered into doing things. As soon as you arrive devious older faculty members will butter you up, saying how it would be great to have someone of your huge ability to lecture in this, that and the other. You are of course flattered and may be tempted to go right in and do whatever it is, but be warned, the major reason they are asking you is not because of your enormous ability but because they don’t want to do it themselves. Cunning old bastards, they want to get credit for doing this big course but want someone else, in fact many someone elses, to do the actual work.

The other reason why you could be called an ass professor is because the job keeps you on your ass most of the day. You are supposed to write a lot papers, grants, organize students, technicians and postdocs, teach, do some bullshit administration and all of these things keep you sitting on your ass all day. This is a shame, as after your graduate student and postdoc experiences you actually might be able to do an experiment without making a total botch of it, and suddenly your trained and more or less competent upper body is parked on its useless and talentless ass all day. Now your job it get a grant or two per year, write a few decent papers every year, do some decent teaching, graduate some graduate students, get invited to meetings, review grants and review papers and last and the most, bring in a lot of grant money. So you are definitely under a lot of pressure, and it is annoying that people who may get paid far more than you, who don’t have and will never have grants, are pressurizing you to bring all this money in, basically to pay their salary.

So at this stage in your career you will have to get into the unspeakable horrors of grant writing. Unlike when you were a grad student or postdoc, you suddenly now have to get your own money to run your lab. This is now a lot worse than it was, as the funding levels are way down from what they were when I was an Ass prof, and it was not easy even then. So you have to come up with some sort of plausible fiction for what useful things you would do if the grant agency gave you like $500,000 or $1,000,000 over three or so years. For me this was always an exercise in total and complete confabulation. I never know what I am going to do that day when I arrive in the lab usually quite late in the morning, let alone 3 years in the future. However I would write some nonsense about how I planned to cure cancer or Alzheimer’s or somesuch, really just a big waste of my time and the time of whatever poor asses had to read the proposal. And then, if I got the money, I’d go off and pretty much always do something entirely different. I don’t think this is a bad approach, as in research you never know what you will blunder into, and in my career I blundered into several things which I could never have anticipated but which I flatter myself were of some actual use to humanity. In contrast the things I proposed in grants were uniformly pretty boring and would now be totally forgotten if I had actually got round to doing them, which I mostly didn’t. The very best approach to get grants is to be really political. I basically hate politics, I am much too honest and abrasive to be any good at it. I am also a very poor liar and I forget rapidly what I said to who, so I am hopeless at political infighting. So I sort of naively thought that my great science would get funded with or without me kissing up to people. As I said that was in the days when it was merely difficult to get funding, not virtually impossible like today. So I did OK but today I likely would not. The most important funding agency for biomedical research in the US is the National Institutes of Health (NIH). These fund a lot of research in biomedicine and the careers of numerous university professors have been and are dependent on getting NIH funding. NIH grants are reviewed by typically a panel of about 20 scientists who know about the area of science because they are in it themselves, which of course poses a natural conflict of interest. So nowadays you have to figure out who on that panel is likely to review your grant and butter them up at meetings, by email and telephone, give them your reagents and advice, tell them what great scientists they are, let your attractive daughter or son go spelunking with them in Acapulco, but don’t actually formally collaborate with them as then they can’t review your grant. Invite them to seminars at your institute, let them sleep in your house, take them to the zoo, let them ride the Appalachian trail on your pet goat, do whatever it is to ingratiate yourself with them. There is an informal corruption that arises on these grant review bodies, which just happens as people are, well, human and they basically have self interest at heart. So if one of the reviewer grandees thinks you are like minded, respect them, think their work is great, they will likely put your name forward as a grant reviewer on the same panel. Why? Well because they want one of their buddies on the panel so that when their grant gets reviewed it will get favorable treatment. The consequence of this is that review panels get packed with people who all know each other, all owe their funding to each other, and so tend to give each other, how should I put it, more favorable reviews than they may actually deserve. So if you are not doing the kissing up you likely won’t get into the in crowd and you might have a very hard time or in fact completely fail to get funding, despite writing an excellent grant proposal. So just swallow your pride and kiss some ass, it’s an essential skill nowadays.

Here is a gender correct joke to illustrate the high level of assistant professor level pressure. (although only two genders in this version). An assistant professor, his/her postdoc and his/her grad student were off to the local slop joint for lunch one day, when the graduate student saw an old brass lamp by the side of the road. So he/she picks it up and rubs it- a genie appears! The genie says “hmm, since there are three of you, I’ll give you one wish each”. So the grad student says “Me first!, I wanna go to a beach in the Caribbean with Miley Cyrus/Justin Bieber”. The genie says “your wish is my command”, and pouf the grad student disappears. So the post doc says, “Me next! I wanna be on a yacht in the Mediterranean with Lady Gaga/Orlando Bloom”. The genie says “your wish is my command” and pouf he/she disappears also. So the genie says to the assistant professor “so what is your wish”. The assistant professor says “I want those two back in my lab by the time I’ve had my lunch”.

So then you come up for tenure. This is the stage when you can get the boot without doing anything like shooting the dean or raping his/her daughter, so the University authorities nowadays can take this opportunity to terminate you with relative ease. So you have to do teaching, administration and research, and in days gone by you could maybe get through by doing only one or two of these things well, not now though unless you are a superstar. You come up for tenure in 5-7 years, though this often gets delayed and of course the whole tenure thing will likely disappear in a few years. Anyway, you have to get a lot of documents together, letters or recommendation, reports on your teaching, reports on what administration you did, reports on if you reviewed papers and grants, if and when you got invited to speak at meetings and a lot of other time wasting and long winded trivia, sort of typical university nonsense. But the promotion and tenure committee nowadays doesn’t care much about all that, but is mostly interested in one thing, which is how much money you brought in in grants. All the deans and other pointless university bureaucrats want to know this as that is what pays their ridiculously bloated salaries, and to be fair, yours as well. And it is not just grants, but overhead money. Most people don’t know this, but when a scientist gets let’s say a large $1,000,000 NIH grant, the institution gets on top of that what are called “overheads”. These could well be renamed “underhands” and are negotiated by each university and are supposed to cover things like the electricity bill, water, some administration costs and so on. At a typical institution the NIH would cough up 50% or more, another $500,000 or more to pay the parasitic bureaucracy. So while the poor scientist had to account for exactly how he or she would spend every dollar of the $1,000,000, the bureaucracy can do pretty much what it wants with the $500,000+. This led to some notable corruption in the past, with yachts, holiday houses etc. being bought with this money, but oversight is a little better now so it is harder to get away with that kind of out and out theft. The NIH, NSF and a few other funding sources will cough up this large extra amount, but many other funding agencies will only pay a much more reasonable maybe 10% on top, and some foundations won’t pay any of this, good for them. So when you come up for tenure, you may have a lab which has brought in $5,000,000 over 5 years, published stellar papers etc. etc. but if you did not bring in much in overheads, you might not get tenure. It’s sad but nowadays it is all about the dollars.

Associate or Asso Professor with Tenure

Assuming you get tenure congratulations! Now you can relax and kick back a bit!! Not really, if you want any kind of decent pay raise, promotion or avoid getting lumbered with the soul destroying crapola committees and other time wasting rubbish that goes on in universities, so you have to keep at the grind of politics, grant writing, teaching, all the rest of it. Nowadays if you get one big grant you will get congratulated by the bureaucrats but they will also want you to leverage that somehow to get another one. And I would not count on tenure being forever as it used to be. Politicos like Scott Walker, the famous Wisconsin Kochroach, have been trying to end tenure in their states, and it could happen everywhere. So anyway as a newly minted asso, try to get other people to volunteer for things. So, as noted above, the poor little ass professors get suckering into doing stuff by the cunning and world weary asso professors, so the abbreviation asso professor is singularly appropriate. Asso professor is as far as many people get, as the bureaucrats will have to pay you more and take more notice of you if differentiate further.

Full (or Fool) Professor

What is the next step. Full and/or Fool Professor? To get to that level you are supposed to have done quite a lot of stuff, have a lot of papers, grants (especially) and have some sort of international reputation. This is true for some Fool Professors, but in many cases all you had to do was live long enough and not upset the administration. Of course you again have to get a load of documents together proving you did this, that and the other, and all that has to go through several committees and it takes months, like everything in a university. After you got through that, in the past you could coast to retirement as long as you kept getting your grants renewed, which you would likely do if you managed to get into the in crowd on the grant reviewing bodies as I discussed above. As I also noted the amount of money you bring in especially in overheads is of overwhelming importance to the bureaucrats and even to some scientists, so grants have to be from the NIH with big overheads to count for much. One of my colleagues retired a few years ago and I asked what were his major accomplishments, expecting something about some science he had actually done. Instead he said “30 years of continuous NIH funding”. I was flabbergasted. Surely getting funding is some sordid little prostitution type of thing you have to do in order to get funds to do some actual science. And you only do the science, demanding challenging work as it is, to discover something interesting and/or useful. Anyway, as a fool professor things are at present rather bleak. The NIH and other funding agencies have decided that they want to fund younger people preferentially, not unreasonable as there are a lot of them and some of them are pretty good. And old professors are healthier than they used to be and will go on and on and on til they drop if they are allowed to, with might take decades. So there is a large group of disgruntled older guys and gals who can’t get grants and so can’t do what they were trained to do but who do not want to retire and so are hanging on doing the usual pointless and tedious administrative nonsense that have a special place in universities.

After that

One way to avoid being a terminally differentiated fool professor is to mutate into one of administrative positions in a university. Chairman? Deanlet? Dean? Provost? What on earth do all these people actually do? All jobs that keep you out of the lab and on your ass, so if you actually like being a scientist you would not want to touch university bureaucracy, which is surely one of the most soul destroying, time consuming, boring, frustrating and ridiculous pursuits known to man, woman or donkey. However these jobs are very well paid, the reason being that university administrators set pay levels and naturally they think that university administrators deserve the most money. So that is one option, sell your soul to the devil.

In Summary

Science has many advantages, so don’t let this rather cynical diatribe put you off of it. You will have to deal with enormous mounds of rubbish in a scientific career, some but by no means all of it generated by your own incompetence or ignorance. You will need a very robust ego, as good (and of course bad and pathetic) papers and grants get rejected, students mess up, collaborators are unreliable, technicians let your precious cells lines die, experiments get botched up, reagents get wasted, hypotheses turn out to be not just wrong but idiotic, your lab people drive you nuts, great opportunities suddenly appear and equally rapidly disappear. But there is a very good side-  There is lot of freedom in terms of when and how you work and you are grossly overpaid in my opinion, though that view is not shared by many of my university colleagues. You get a lot of free trips, I’ve had trips all over without paying, to England, Scotland, Sweden, Germany, France, Switzerland, Denmark, Italy, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and China for one boondoogle meeting or another. And sometimes bad and pathetic grants get funded. And of course the science is just endlessly fascinating if you organize yourself so you have time to do any. Anyway congratulations for graduating, I hope we have generally been of some use, even if only in showing you how not to do things. Keep in touch, we will all claim to have been your best buddies if you win a Nobel Prize or something.

The Number of Cells in the Brain

How many cells does the brain contain, and what is the proportion of each cell type? We know there are neurons, astrocytes, oligodendrocytes, microglia, endothelia, columnar epithelia, tanycytes, pericytes, cells of the choroid plexus, stem cells and a variety of more minor types. You would think that this was a question which had been settled decades ago with good solid data and that every neuroscientist would have a firm grasp of the basic findings. But if you thought that you would be wrong. There is still a widespread belief that glia vastly outnumber neurons in the mammalian brain. For example this is part of the introduction to a popular science book- “Back in the 1960s, it was discovered that glial cells are 90 percent of the brain. Neurons make up 10 percent” (Koob, 2009). And it is not just popular science books. To quote a highly influential text book “Glial cells far outnumber neurons- there are between 10 and 50 times more glia than neurons in the central nervous system of vertebrates” (Kandel et al. 2000). For a more recent example from the normally reasonably accurate journal Nature “The proportion of glia seems to be correlated with an animal’s size: the tiny nematode worm has only a few glia; some 25% of the fruitfly brain consists of glia; the mouse brain has roughly 65% of these cells; the human brain has about 90%; and the elephant brain consists of some 97% glia (Allen and Barres 2009). I contacted the authors of this article to try to find out where this to me outrageous claim originated but they could not find the original paper. It should be mentioned that not every text book has promulgated the extreme version of this idea. Some authors are more cautious “Glial are more numerous than neurons in the brain, outnumbering them by perhaps 3 to 1” (Purves et al, 2011). But still the claim in this case is that there is an awful lot more glia. I go to seminars and meetings at which people come up with various large numbers for the ratio of glia to neurons. For one recent example I was at the Society for Neuroscience meeting in Washington DC, (November 2014), and I went to an excellent presidential lecture by an extremely talented young scientist who also stated that glia far outnumber neurons in the mammalian brain. Clearly the idea that glia are enormously numerous has considerable traction. It is surely extraordinarily peculiar that the signaling cells of the brain are supposedly only a tiny minority of the whole. Anyone would be surprised to find, for example, that less than 5% of muscle cells were able to contract, or that less than 5% of liver cells were able to detoxify the blood. The purpose of the present article is to hopefully highlight the solid data which indicates what is the correct number of brain cells.

To start with the Koob claim that back in the 60s it was discovered that glia vastly outnumber neurons, where did that come from? It is noticeable that this book and in fact none of the other claims listed above cite any original literature. I assume that the original meme can only have come from histological studies, which were, in the 60s, in their infancy. At that time there was, believe it or not, no really reliable method of identifying a neuron in a section. What did exist was Golgi silver stain, Nissl stain and Bodian and other neurofibrillar stains. The Golgi stain allows you to identify cell types by their morphology but is by nature very non quantitative, for still unknown reasons staining only a subset of cells in a section. Both the Nissl and Bodian type stains will identify neurons but only the larger neurons. So you can see projection neurons in the cortex and spinal cord with these two stains, but these are unusually large and relatively non-abundant cells. The smaller cortical and especially cerebellar interneurons typically do not stain well or at all with these two stains and so could only be visualized in the 60s using nuclear stains. I believe that this is the reason why the idea that glia are so numerous first originated- the casual observer may have thought that all of the nuclei not associated with obvious Nissl substance or neurofibrils were glia. However, some researchers realized that the morphology of neuronal nuclei was distinct from that of other kinds of cells, the neuronal nuclei being larger and less dense. This did allow some reasonably accurate counting of neurons but only in very small well defined regions. These papers generally did not address the ratio of neurons to glia but certainly did not suggest that there was a huge over abundance of glia. However for whatever reason this work did not become part of the neuroscience canon.

As science progressed to the development of immunocytochemistry in 70s and onwards it became possible to specifically visualize different types of glia and neurons using antibodies to proteins such as glial fibrillary acidic protein or GFAP, neurofilaments, neuron specific enolase, Pgp9.5/UCHL1, Iba-1/Aif-1, CNPase  and NeuN. Since these proteins are expressed only in certain types of brain cell it now became possible to identify the different types of cell and also of course a suitably motivated and competent person could now count each type of cell. However nobody seems to have systematically addressed this issue so again the meme that glia greatly outnumber neurons doctrine lived on.

NeuN staining in green and myelin basic protein in red on a section of rat hippocampus. Antibody staining and image courtesy of EnCor Biotechnology Inc.

Above: Rat hippocampus stained with antibody to NeuN (green), myelin basic protein (red) and DNA (blue). The neuronal cell bodies and nuclei in the layers of the hippocampus stain strongly with NeuN antibody, while non-neuronal cells are revealed by the DNA stain and are negative for NeuN. Antibodies and image courtesy of EnCor Biotechnology Inc.

An important and I think somewhat overlooked series of papers have been very influential to me at least, and deserve to be much better know. These are from the laboratories of Roberto Lent and Suzana Herculano-Houzel in Rio de Janiero. The first of these is entitled “Isotropic fractionator: a simple, rapid method for the quantification of total cell and neuron numbers in the brain” (Herculano-Houzel and Lent 2005). This very short paper describes how to make a nuclear preparation from a fixed brain sample and count the nuclei of brain cells after staining with DAPI. The cunning part of this paper is to counterstain the isolated nuclei with antibody to NeuN, a protein found in almost but not quite all neuronal nuclei. You can therefore count two classes of nuclei, those which are DAPI positive and NeuN positive, which must have come from neurons, and those which are just DAPI positive, most of which must come from one of the several classes of non neuronal cells. The results were surprising if you believed the supernumerous glia theory, there were actually more NeuN positive nuclei in a rat brain than NeuN negative nuclei. This means that even the combination of the astrocytes, oligodendrocytes, microglia, endothelia, pericytes, lymphocytes, macrophages, ependyma, tanycytes, pia cells and so on was still the minority and consequently that no one class of non-neuronal cell is likely to represent more than about 10% of the total brain cell count. The actual data is that the typical adult rat brain contains about 330 million nuclei, and so 330 million nucleated cells, of which about 60% are NeuN positive. The ratio of NeuN positive to NeuN negative was variable in different brain regions, with about 40% in cortex, 53% in olfactory bulb and a perhaps surprisingly high 83% in cerebellum. The reason for the very high neuronal content in the cerebellum is comprehensible on reflection as being due to the very large number of cerebellar granule cells. These small and densely packed interneurons are the major cell type of the cerebellar granular layer, and this cell type is very likely the single most abundant kind of brain cell in the rat. The basic fractionator method has been tried on several other species with rather comparable results. The same researchers went on to show that the average human brain contains about 86 billion NeuN positive cells and about 85 billion NeuN negative cells, so humans also have a preponderance of neuronal cells, albeit by a smaller margin than in rodents (Azevedo et al., 2009). The elephant brain, far from having 97% glial cells according to the one claim mentioned above, also has a preponderance of neurons although the number of cortical neurons compared to glia is lower than in humans. However the number of neurons in the cerebellum compensates for this, so that about 97% of the neurons in the elephant brain are in this region, again mostly granule cells. If you want to see a TED talk by Hercolano-Houzel outlining some of this interesting data, along with many other links, press here.

If you think about the construction of the nervous system these kind of findings become quite comprehensible. For example cortical astrocytes and other glia show “tiling” and “self avoidance”. These interesting properties, likely mediated by specific cell adhesion molecules, result from two related phenomena. Self avoidance means that the processes of each individual cell avoids contact with oneanother so they naturally and efficiently fill a three dimensional region of brain tissue. Tiling results from the processes of each astrocytes being inhibited from extending on contact with the processes of neighboring astrocytes. As a result of these two mechanisms each astrocyte occupies a small three dimensional space and only one astrocyte has processes in any one brain region. In cortical regions this block of tissue may contain numerous neurons, I have heard claims of up to 150 per astrocyte. Clearly there are also regions where there are astrocytes and no neurons, but a lot of brain is cortex and astrocytes are very large cells, so the absolute number of astrocytes is necessarily not enormous. Similar arguments can be made about microglia which are likely to be more numerous than astrocytes as they are relatively small but also “tiled” cell and “self avoiding” cells, limiting their absolute number. Oligodendrocytes are found only in white matter regions, and each oligodendrocyte makes myelin around numerous axons, so again there is no particular reason to think that these would be enormously numerous. The endothelia, in my opinion, are likely to be more numerous than any of the glial cells. After all the brain is very heavily vascularized in all regions and the vasculature is made up of densely packed and relatively small nucleated endothelial cells. What is needed to answer these kinds of quantitative questions definitively are robust markers similar to NeuN which are present only in subclasses of non-neuronal cell nuclei. Unfortunately such markers have not been described to date, though there is some possibility that such may eventually be found. One possible so far unexplored avenue might be to use tissues from transgenic mice in which Cre recombinase is expressed in specific subclasses of glia. The form of Cre used in these transgenic mice is engineered to be nuclear targeted. As a result the Isotropic fractionator method should allow the identification and counting of Cre positive nuclei using a suitable Cre antibody. As far as I know nobody has done this. Similarly GFP expression under cell type specific promoters might be used in the same way, especially if the GFP includes a nuclear localization sequence.

So why has the dogma proved to be so durable? One reason is likely the practice of text books to repeat material found in previous editions of the same book or from other peoples earlier text books without bothering to look for the original reference. The other is I think that the old glia doctrine is one of those odd thoughts that seems counterintuitive at first sight, a fun filled fact like that New York sewers are full of alligators. Since neurons do the really important work in the brain should they not be the most abundant? So suggesting that some other cell type is far more abundant becomes one of those little known fun filled facts that people like to spread about. In this case counterintuitive is also counterfactual and the original intuitive thought, that there should be more neurons than other cell types, is actually correct.

An Opinionated and Judgemental Tesla Road Trip- from April 2015, the Dawnings of the Electric Era

For those of you who don’t know me, which is most of the humanoidals and other species on the planet, I am a scientist by inclination, training and dumb luck, and worked as a University Professor for much of a lifetime, but recently gave all that up to work in my own little startup company which has the advantage that I don’t have to do what anyone else tells me, mostly. I was born and educated in England, lived in Germany for a while and moved to the US in 1986. So, to get more or less to the point, I have always been a compulsive early adopter, I was the first of my peer group to have a PC, an internet connection, an iPhone, an iPad, a digital camera and so on, you get the picture. So naturally I might be attracted to the first hybrid and then the first electric vehicles (EV) when they became available. I spent a lot of my youth playing with various cars and motorcycles, all with pure gas engines, and so I know about that kind of machine, having taken many of them apart and put most of them back together again, more or less successfully. So I know how complicated they are, how much there is to go wrong and how difficult it is to get them running perfectly. They also pollute the world, are extremely inefficient, make too much noise and heat and you have to keep buying various noxious oils, antifreezes, greases and other unguents just to keep them running. So when hybrid cars came out I soon had one, and then when EVs came I got into them also.

Insight

I initially bought a first generation Honda Insight in 2003. That’s it above on the right, with my new Tesla 85D on the left. It is interesting how similar the body shape is, in both cases low designs which minimize air resistance. At the time I got the Honda I was working a strange routine which involved visiting two work places every day, necessitating a round trip of 50 miles. I was then totally into motorcycles, which was fun but had its disadvantages. Quite often I would get caught in the torrential downpours you get in Florida, especially in summer. I also kept losing cell phones either because they got soaking wet or they fell out of my pocket, so I decided I needed to get a car. I got the Insight at below the reserve price on Ebay, second hand at about $11,000, with only few thousand miles on it. It was and actually still is a great car, since it has now become my sons first vehicle. Not fast, not powerful, a tiny 67 hp, 1 Liter three cylinder gas engine and a electric motor. It looks like a sports car, sleek and low with only two seats because one reason it is so efficient is that it is very small and light in weight. It can do 60 mpg or more if you are careful and pretty much always gets at least 50 mpg. In fact it is still the most efficient fossil burning car you can or in fact could buy, as the original Insight is not on the market anymore. It didn’t impress those who care about how fast a car can go 0 to 60 mph, but I’m not interested at all in that. So I drove that for several years and very much liked the hybrid concept, very new in 2003. At the time gas was around $1.30 for regular, and I had done some maths and figured I would make out well with this car if I kept it for several years and if gas got to be over $2.00 per gallon. A lot of friends and colleagues told me I was crazy and that gas would never get that expensive. So I got that one right, even in today’s depressed gas market it is still more than $2.00 per gallon. However the Honda was still a fossil burner and I had been understanding more and more about the numerous evils of fossil fuels and the numerous evil people who selfishly and dishonestly promote them, so I was determined to curb my ongoing addiction to this processed prehistoric sewage. So I started to do some research.

Leaf

So I bought a Nissan Leaf about two and half years ago, and loved the car, and it is shown above. Again this was from Ebay, and I paid about $19,000 for a very low miles unit. It was refined, quiet, powerful and big, not a golf cart. It could carry 5 people and all their crap in comfort. There was a problem with the range though, and I typically got between 60 and 80 miles on a charge, which is real world normal for this car. You’ll see claims of 100 miles or more per charge, and on a long straight road with just the driver, no luggage, no A/C at 35 mph you could probably do that. But where are you going to find a road like that? And if you did you would likely greatly piss off everyone behind you. So I mostly used it around town, borrowing one of the other family vehicles if I wanted to go further afield. This was not a problem most of the time, and I never actually ran out of charge, though I got pretty close a few times. I liked the car so much I more or less ignored my motorcycle so I stopped going to gas stations. It was quite interesting when I did visit one after about a year of not going. I was filling up the motorcycle and I suddenly noticed the awful sickening stink that gasoline makes, which I was not used to anymore. I was wondering how and why people put up with this awful stench. I remembered how in the early years of the last century, before gas cars, the big cities of the developed world were full of horses, and so of course huge piles of horse shit were everywhere, bringing horrendous smells, flies, disease and other unpleasantness, not to mention a dead horse every once in a while. Awful, but people got used to that. And in the centuries before that there was no proper drainage system so not just horses but also people pooped and peed in the streets, and people got used to that also. So now people put up with the stench of gasoline but would happily not have to do so in future if there was a viable alternative. So I think a visitor from 100 years in the future would be appalled and sickened by the fossiliferous miasma surrounding any modern city, and wonder how people today can stand all the different stenches from oil, gas, tarmac etc.

So what about a Tesla Model S? A bit expensive at at least $70,000 for a new one but really way cool. So I ordered a new Model 85S in maybe October 2014, there not being much in the way of second hand ones on Ebay at the time. The 85S was not the fastest Model S you could get, but still a pretty substantial performance. It did have the biggest battery then available, 85 kWh, giving the longest range. As you may have realized from the previous paragraph, speed performance doesn’t really interest me much, but range does. Anyway, I had put the order in just before Elon announced the Model D versions. The original S models have single electric motors in the rear and are fantastic cars, but the newer D versions have two motors, one front and one rear, so they have a unique form of 4 wheel drive, where front and rear can be operated independently by the cars computer system. There were initially two of these new models, the 85D and the P85D. The P85D is the performance model, much on YouTube recently, which at that time had a total of 691 horse power. This is a colossal amount, and I was fairly sure that I would only make use of this while showing off, which I do once in a while but it didn’t seem worth the extra cash. Anyway the somewhat cheaper 85D had a still very impressive 422 horse power, far more than I was ever likely to need, and so I could show off perfectly well with that. This is about 3 times as much power as the Leaf and 7 times as much as the Insight. The 85D had marginally better range than the regular S models or the P85D, and I know myself well enough to know that having even a small margin of extra range would be good as I tend to be something of a risk taker. So the range thing clinched it and I called up Tesla and asked when this model would be available. I had expected that the answer would be like two years time or something, which I would have got from a typical car company. But that is one thing Tesla is not, and I was told the D models were available immediately so I changed my Model S 85 order to the Model S 85D. This moved my order into another waiting list so I had to wait a bit longer and so I finally got the car at the end of March 2015, paying very close to $100,000 for it, since I added some of the other options, and had to pay various other fraudulent federal government and state kickbacks of one sort or another. Below is an image of me on the right pointing at something or other along with an optometrist guy, also a Tesla owner, who I met in Ocala at the supercharger there.

Tesla-ocala

Anyway, at the end of that April 2015 I had a business meeting in Texas, near Conroe, and in looking at the Tesla supercharger map it seemed feasible to drive using Superchargers the whole way without too many problems. The distance from Gainesville, Florida, where I normally reside, was getting on for 1,000 miles, which I figured I should be able to do in 2 days. Of course it would have been much more sensible to fly, but I saw this trip as a proof of concept, so off I went- here is what happened.

Day 1

So I go into my little company in Gainesville and do a few things, talk to some of my people and break the very sad news that I will be gone for a few days. However they took it very well, there did not seem to be much wailing and gnashing of teeth and in fact they all looked rather pleased. So I set out at about 10:30 am for the Lake City supercharger, and I got there about 1 hr later. I had plenty of charge for that as that is only about 50 miles from Gainesville. I set the cruise control on 70 mph on I75 and crept up behind a truck which slowed me down to 63-65 or so. The car is amazing, the sonar detects a vehicle in front of you and keeps you at whatever distance you programmed into the system. So if the vehicle in front slows down, you slow down, if it speeds up you speed up and if it stops you stop, all without you doing anything. So some poor trucker was my unpaid employee, working my accelerator and brake peddles for me. I find that this makes long distance driving much less demanding as you are not constantly responsible for adjusting your speed based on whatever is going on in front of you. This platooning as it is called was good resulting in Watts per mile below 300, which I realize is a good target, as then the number of miles range estimate on the dashboard is very close to or a bit below the actual range. So the 85 kWh battery at 300W per mile gives 283 miles range, going from 100% charge to 0% charge, and this would be quite feasible if I kept to low 60s on the interstate. The efficiency is due to the relatively low speed, but some must be the effect of slipstreaming the truck, an effect which I could have increased by programming the car to drive closer, but this did not seem very safe. So I get to the Lake City supercharger and plug in. There are six Tesla charging stations, easy to find, and my Tesla is the only one there. The superchargers are in a complex with a bunch of eating places, a barber shop, restaurants, a Walmart a couple of blocks down and of course a gas station on the other side of the road, but nothing else of particular note. It’s a fairly typical interstate stopping point, not a shopping mall like other supercharger locations, just food and gas. I decide to charge to 100% rather than my usual 90%. Tesla recommends routinely charging to 90% so as to prolong the battery life, but you can charge to 100% if you have longer trip to do. Lake City to the next supercharger stop in De Funiak Springs is about 220 miles which is close to the 245 miles range indicated on my 85D at 90% charge. Driving in the low 60s mph this would be no problem, but that speed is a little slow on the average US interstate. However I want to drive a 70mph, the legal speed limit so I charge to 100%, which the car indicates will be about 270 miles, giving me plenty of extra, even though at that speed I will burn (I can’t help but say burn) electrons a little faster, about 330 Watts per mile. Of course I might also get lost or there might be some unanticipated detour. You tend to pay more attention to this in a EV, as there are not (yet) multiple fast charging stations every few miles like there are gas stations.

While the car is charging I stop at Moe’s Southwestern Grill and have a coke and taco, excellent and really cheap. Lively place, whenever someone enters some or all of the people working there shout out loudly what sounds like “Guacamo” or “Wecamo” or something which I thought sort of colorful. Some sort of version of “Guacamole”, a major part of the Mexican menu? Then I realize it’s “welcome to Moe’s” in a deeply southern accent and apparently deliberately somewhat garbled. Cool. I then get onto Moe’s free WiFi, which works fine, and am in no time happily stuffing my face, cruising the web, Facebooking, reading emails and the like. When my face is fully stuffed I wander around the area a bit, as there is a wooded area behind the chargers, almost a little nature park, but like everywhere in the US, lots of trash, mostly the disposable crap like polystyrene cups, plastic bottles, beer cans, McDonalds bags etc. This garbage is unfortunately everywhere in the US, and you tend to notice it around superchargers as they tend to be on the edge of big cities with countryside nearby. As I wander around I come across a tent hidden in the trees and surrounded by shopping carts and various odd items, but I don’t see anyone there. I wonder if you are counted as homeless if you live in a tent. I suppose if you have to live in a tent it’s most convenient to be close to a Walmart, while the Tesla supercharger is probably not much of an issue. I don’t see anything else very interesting so I go back to the car, now fully charged.

The Tesla software is great, with a great big screen, but the GPS won’t seem to let me navigate directly from Lake City to the supercharger in De Funiak Springs. It wants me to go to the Tifton supercharger in Georgia and then on to De Funiak. This is presumably because the software is suggesting a longer trip with an intermediate charging rather then a shorter more direct trip but one close to the range limit of the Model S. Oh well. Later I figured out how to program the GPS to give me a route to the second closest charger rather than the closest. Not a big deal, I needed to learn the software better, and this was my first long trip. Having now driven a bit more I can see that the software is also a bit conservative, warning you a bit more than it really needs to, factoring in that you might be a much more aggressive driver than I am or that you might have taken your four 300 pound cousins and all their rock collections with you. Either of these will cut down on the range and presumably Elon does not want to see pictures of Model S cars with flat batteries being towed off of the interstate. So I set out and it doesn’t seem to be a problem to do this leg of the journey, and I arrive with a margin of 40 or so miles, even though there are some fairly steep inclines and I did 70mph most of the way. So I get to De Funiak Springs at about 4 pm but now in a different time zone. At De Funiak I plug in again, six superchargers in a row, but mine again being the only Tesla there, and then go off to explore as I have never been there before.

DeFuniak Springs on a rainy day

There are some antique shops, a nice lake, some railway lines, a theater, a small restaurant and a hotel, but not too much is going on a Monday afternoon. De Funiak seems to be an old railway junction which mutated into one of those picturesque places people go to at weekends to buy useless stuff and hang out. It is also raining a bit and most things appear to be closed. So I had a cheeseburger, avoiding the frd ckn which I think must be a Bosnian delicacy, at the little Corner Café while the car is charging.
Corner Cafe DeFuniak Springs

After charging to about 90% I set off and do 70 miles per hour to the Mobile supercharger, about 150 miles further on, this will be no problem. I get to Mobile and look for the supercharger, as usual going around the block at least once before I finally find it, in a large shopping mall. For the first time on this trip there is another Tesla charging, and I meet a guy sitting in a P85D and yak with him a bit. The P85D must obviously be very new as they have only been on the market for maybe 3 months at that time. He tells me had a Tesla Roadster before this and is clearly therefore an early EV adopter. I ask him how come he can afford this, and like pretty much everyone else who has a Tesla, he says he is not particularly rich. He is a semi-retired air force guy, flew the McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom but not in combat, now does some consulting for the air force. As we are talking a lady mall security person comes by in a police type car and asks us about Teslas, which she has only apparently seen one of before. She asks how long they take to charge up and I say half an hour, which is what I usually say and is somewhat accurate, as if you are not fully discharged it takes about that long to get add 150 miles charge, which is usually enough to get to the next charger. The military guy is clearly much more precise then me as he says it depends on how much charge you had when you started and to what level you want to charge to. Going from almost fully discharged to 100% charged would take longer, but less than one hour. As I noted above you generally only charge to 90% and you likely have about 20% or so when you start, so 30-40 minutes on a supercharger is probably a reasonable thing to say, but what the air force guy says is correct also. In fact, the charging rate varies as a function of how much charge is in the battery. So if the battery is almost discharged a supercharger will charge my 85D at a rate of 360 miles range per hour, while if the battery is at 90%, it now does more like 240 miles range per hour. So you can get a lot of charge in a short time, but to get all of the charge takes a bit longer. But it is all free so what the hell?

Anyway, I talked to the P85D guy a bit more about the McDonnell Douglas F15, which he had flown also, but not the Lockheed Martin F22 and Lockheed Martin F35, which is what he somehow was involved in consulting about. He does not seem to think much of the F35, hugely overbudget, delayed, underperforming and the most expensive weapon system in the the history of the known universe. That might be sort of OK if it actually worked but it appears that in many respects it is inferior to the F15s, F16s,  F18s and A10s except of course in unit cost. This is unfortunate as it supposed to replace all these 40 year old designs. An unusually bad Pentagon contract even by awful Pentagonian standards in my default mode cynical opinion. He is clearly also some kind of religious guy and he strangely gives me a card with a psalm on it and also details of his P85D, which I unfortunately somehow lost. A bit odd. He stops talking to me as it starts raining a bit and he wants to sit in his car and eat some food he got somewhere, so I wander off into the mall. The mall has McDonalds, Starbucks and the usual rubbish of designer clothes, shoes and sports stores and apparently no book stores, computer stores or anything a nerd like me would be interested in. There was a period in the 70s in men’s fashion when you could dress like a slob, which suited me fine, and I never progressed beyond that, so all the fashion clothes stuff is wasted on me, I only wear clothes to avoid legal problems. But anyway I have a quick look around, buy a coffee at the McDonalds, futz with my portable a bit using the free McDonalds WiFi, and then head back to the car, which is now charged up. I meet the religious P85D guy again, who is heading back into the mall to go to the restroom and I give him a hail fellow well met kind of thing. I wonder if a religious, military guy like that also does not believe in evolution, climate change and so on, common beliefs in the military and the South. Or if he does not believe this sciency stuff why he has this environmentally benign and very sciency car. Of course he may just see Teslas as really good cars, I will ask him if I see him again. As I am leaving I notice that his P85D decal is “Acts 8-29” and out of curiosity I later Google that. That is apparently “When they came up out of the water, the Spirit of the Lord suddenly took Philip away, and the eunuch did not see him again, but went on his way rejoicing”. So now I am really confused. Who is Philip? Is the P85D guy a rejoicing eunuch? Or rejoicing because he has a Tesla? One day I may figure this all out. I personally don’t believe any of this religious stuff, having been brought up in a devout Catholic family and attended two Catholic schools. I notice that my charging has now gone above 90%, that’s because I didn’t reset the charging level back to 90% after the 100% charging in Lake City. My fault, not a problem but not necessary as the next supercharger is not too far away, only 132 miles to the next one in Baton Rouge, LA.

I then set off and drive up the I10 and find a hotel near Gulfport since I am getting tired. The hotel is not too bad, nice well dressed slim middle aged lady behind the counter and some more slobby looking guy hanging around, lounging languidly against the desk, facing her and they are yaking away when I come in. Maybe he’s trying to get off with her, I don’t know. She checks me in and after I ask tells me they have no bar or restaurant, but there is a convenience store and a pizza place, just walk out the door and pass by the liquor store. I say thank you but I will walk out the door and likely not pass by the liquor store but go in and get some liquor and both she and the guy hanging around laugh. Nice people. Anyway I buy a 6 pack of Belgian Blue Nun beer, some cashews and some chips, and I drink all of the beer and eat all the food- Such a high class life I am living.

Day 2. Tuesday

I wake up very early, snooze again and get up finally at about 8:00, eat a not great but free breakfast (toast, bagel, French bread, egg), do emails, Facebook, New York Times, Reuters, Huffington etc. and get on the road at about 9:30. Head to the Baton Rouge supercharger and manage it after about 15 mile detour to go off to some strange place that the GPS randomly directed me to. This takes me off on a heavily vehicle infested road to some side street which seems to be, ironically, some sort of processing facility run by the fossil fuel industry. I imagine that I must have somehow pressed a random spot on the GPS screen and that somehow the software made that a destination. Or, if you type in part of the location of something into the GPS the system will attempt to guess the text of the entire location, and I may somehow have accidentally selected one of these guesses. Or maybe I’m just a doofus, who knows? So the detour could have been a problem if I was short on battery power but fortunately this was not the case. Would also not have been a problem if I was concentrating more or if I had someone with me who could focus on the navigation. Anyway, I get to the Baton Rouge supercharger about noonish, as usual driving around the block a time or two before I find it. I plug in, buy a coffee at a gas station and walk around a bit. I had arranged to visit an old friend Owen who now lives in Galveston, and he emails me to ask where I am. I email back and say I am now at Red Stick, and wonder if he will figure that out, since Baton Rouge is loosely translatable from French to Red Stick. He is pretty smart, having a PhD and coming somewhat close to getting a Nobel Prize, but I’m not sure how much French he is aware of, being from Australia, where they have their own language. When the car is up to 90% charge again I head off.

Next stop is the Lake Charles supercharger, 195 miles but I now know this is no problem at all on 90% charge and 70 mph, so I drive there, park the car and plug in and it is clearly a novelty. A thin middle aged guy with very poor teeth and scruffy clothes comes by in a dirty white pickup and asks me about it, how long it takes to charge and I tell him half an hour, which is sort of somewhat correct, as I discussed above. He says that is the way of the future and I agree. Just after he goes another pickup, black and stretched this time, and sort of dirty also, comes by with a family in it. There are two of them in the front seats, apparently the husband driving and the wife, and they are both, how can I put it politely, grossly overweight. There are children in the back half cabin of the truck but I can’t be similarly judgmental about their body type as I can’t see them very well. The parents have clearly never seen a Tesla before either, and are surprised that there is no place to put gas in. I then tell him the range, charging time, cost of charging all the rest of it. Chargers and Teslas in the South are clearly very novel, and the chargers round the gulf coast had only been put in very recently, so there is a lot of interest. So they drive off apparently impressed and educated. I think it is important to let people know about EVs, and I wonder if part of my motivation is simple ego, showing people I am more up on new stuff then they are. Oh well, maybe partly, but there are many other good reasons to go electric besides my ego, which I will probably bloviate on later in this blog. Anyway, this time I get a coffee and a hot dog at the Sonic, a drive in hamburgery and hot dogery place, which is right next to the supercharger. There are various other shops, restaurants, coffee bars, a Target, quite a nice mall, but again not much that interests a nerd like me. So I do some emails, internety stuffs and when I get to 90% charge I set off to Huntsville, Texas, 171 miles, another easy trip.

I get to the Huntsville Texas supercharger, about 8:30 or so, again a bit difficult to find, though that may be my fault, I’m beginning to develop more of a tendency to believe the doofus theory. In this case there was always someone close behind me annoyed I’m not going faster, while I am looking for the charger and at the GPS so going slow, so I have to go round the block a couple of times before I figure out the right turning which is a tricky one at the top of a hill, with local people who know the roads always speeding behind me. The charger is right next to a Hampton Inn, which I find out is full and so I am worried that they won’t let me charge up, but I ask and apparently anyone can charge there, resident or not. Mine is again the only Tesla there so I plug in and walk over to the Days Inn, the neighboring hotel which has one room left. Apparently there were bad storms in the region and locals stay in hotels while the power is out, and also workers come in to fix things. A problem in the US is that trees grow out of the ground generally speaking and then fall over in storms, and power cables are mostly above ground next to the trees, so they get knocked down too. Inconvenient but a good job creator I suppose. So, unusual for April, the hotels are all pretty full. To me this is another early indication of climate change in action, but likely not to too many other people, but, well, we all have our prejudices don’t we?

My friend Owen in Galveston emails back and asks me how I plan to get from the Redstick golf course in south Florida to Galveston in one day, so I guess he did not figure it out. He should also know that I may have changed as I aged but I’m never going to get involved in something as pointless as golf. Anyway I email back Red Stick = Baton Rouge, and I later found out that his 17 year old son did manage to figure this out. Ah, the advantages of youth!

I walk to a convenience store get 4 cans of Dos Equis, hungry but don’t fancy chips or hot dogs so I don’t get any more food, reflecting on all the calories in beer. After two beers the car is charged up so I move it to the neighboring Days Inn, but I have to go round the block twice to get the right entrance, as there are again people speeding right behind me and its now dark so not so easy to see things, and the beers may not be helping much either. So I sit in the hotel, drink more beer and watch Bill Maher, John Oliver and look at a YouTube of a Tesla trip through Europe by Robert Llewelyn on his FullyCharged Youtube channel, all pretty funny. If you’re interested in EVs and alternate energy stuffs you should check out the FullyCharged thing, it’s informed and often quite amusing.

Day 3 Wednesday

Get up at 6:30 or so, have breakfast in the Days Inn. Fox news is on in the breakfast room in the hotel with Rudy Guiliani blaming liberal governments for the rioting that just happened in Baltimore. I’m wondering why he doesn’t blame conservative governments for the much much bigger troubles in the Middle East, but what the hell? And remember this is the guy who said GWB “kept us safe”, apparently forgetting that the biggest terrorist attack on the US or anywhere else for that matter, happened while GWB was supposed to be keeping us safe. Some middle aged white guy has breakfast there also, clearly a traveler like me. Also a Hispanic lady, talking loudly in Spanish on her cell phone. These two then get into a conversation, but apparently neither gets the others language, so this does not get very far. The guy apparently is a visitor who wants to buy real estate in the area and the lady can’t understand what he wants. I don’t intrude as I am sure I know even less about the local real estate than the Hispanic lady, and my knowledge of Spanish only comes from guessing based on the little French and Latin that I did in school and that was a lifetime ago. So I watch impassively but with mild interest as two humans blather away energetically and completely fail to communicate. Humans are strange, why do we have all these different languages? Like DNA, every time you copy a language from one generation to another the copying is imperfect so random alterations are introduced and pretty soon you have a new language (or species). But it seems that new languages can arise very quickly. As an Englishman I can say that that I can’t understand all English spoken today in Cornwall or Wales, or spoken by Shakespeare and I have an even harder time with Chaucer. Why is this? My theory is that we are basically a tribal species, evolved as small groups living in Africa where we competed with other similar small groups. Perhaps rapidly changing language gave tribes that did this the ability to communicate with each other without other tribes knowing what they were talking about. This might have been useful in wartime, which is something that humans seem to do a lot of.

Then I drive the Tesla back to the Huntsville charger again as I suddenly decided to top up to 100%, about 275 miles, as there are no superchargers round Galveston, the next stop. Actually this would not be necessary if I were to do the same trip again, as Tesla recently put in a Houston supercharger, which would also have made some of the delay I experienced later unnecessary. In the few minutes while the car is charging I wander off into the land around the hotel, and see a lot of interesting plants, some birds and of course a large amount of trash, as everywhere else I stopped. Plastic bottles, McDonalds polystyrene cups, plastic bags, beer cans etc. It’s a shame that a lot of disposable stuff doesn’t actually get disposed of, but just let to blow off in the four winds. Anyway I heard somewhere that if you charge up to 100% you should use the charge immediately but I am not sure if that is fact, confabulation or hallucination. But anyway I set off immediately.

The whole reason for the trip was to visit Bethyl labs where I have a 9:00 am meeting. So I head out to Bethyl labs, in Conroe in the Texas countryside and get there at exactly 9:00 am- in fact I had planned to get there a 10 minutes early but got held up in rush hour traffic. My fault maybe, I never warned the local people I wanted to use the road so consequently all kinds of other people were on it. I stay in Bethyl till about 11:00 or so doing the usual blah blah at these kind of meetings, then head off to Galveston. Go down I45 the whole way, crazy insane drivers around Houston. I’ve never seen such pathological speeding, dangerous lane changing, tail gating, compounded by confusing diversions and in progress road works everywhere. The locals know all about these problems, so they can still navigate at well over the speed limit, but I of course can’t. At one point I see a sign for the Texas Battleship Park, which sounds sort of interesting, so I make a detour but can’t find it, so I carry on to Galveston. I later found out that this ship is the only remaining example of a true WW1 era dreadnought in existence, so will have to check that out some other time. Get nearly to Galveston and stop off at the side of the road. Call Owen and talk to his wife. He’s at his house, so I go there. He looks OK, older, hair a bit whiter, chin a bit jowelleyer, but otherwise not to bad. He’s 66 now, still working in the University of Texas Medical Branch, still enthusiastic about science, but having problems with research grants like almost everybody in the sciency cohort that I know. The US public generally does not know about the carnage that recent cuts in funding have done to the NIH, NSF and other federal funding agencies in the US. Of course I could also point out the the US public doesn’t generally know much about anything, but the cuts result in many highly competent and motivated scientists not being able to do valuable research. And even the best scientists have to spend a lot more time writing grants than before. Writing grants can be useful as it gets you thinking, but your time would be much better spent actually doing the science. It’s all very short sighted as advances in science lead to better treatments in the clinic, new technologies, better understanding of our world and create lots of spin off companies, like for example mine. Because of this recent lack of US investment it is inevitable that other countries will reap more of the benefits of new knowledge in future, so the US is just planting the seeds of its own scientific decline. So Owen worked in the lab of two Nobelists, Erwin Neher and Bert Sakmann, and then did a lot of important work in his own lab so it’s sad and counter productive that he has these problems. Anyway, he is much impressed that his two big dogs, which normally viciously attack visitors, bounce right up to me and bond immediately, I don’t know why, maybe they sense my inner lupine.
Owen and his doggies

He has to go to work for one hour doing some teaching thing so I go for a walk round Galveston, a very cute little city where you can actually walk, unusual for the US. I check out the Galvez hotel, which has a low power charger according to the Plugshare app, which is on my iPhone and tells me where I can charge my EV. I will need some charge from somewhere as there are no Tesla superchargers anywhere close. Well the hotel has chargers, but you have to be a hotel guest, so that’s not much use. I then realize that Galveston must be named after Mr. (or Senor) Galvez, whoever that was, but then, as now, I did not bother to Google to find out more about this. Oh alright I just did, Galveston is named after Bernado de Galvez Y Madrid, Count of Galvez, and the island was the capital of the Republic of Texas at one time, so there. It was also basically washed away in the hurricane of 1900, supposedly the US’s greatest natural disaster, so far anyway, but not counting George W. Bush of course, though you can argue about whether he was natural or not. So they built a huge sea wall (around Galveston, not GWB) and basically rebuilt the whole place much higher. I notice that Owen’s house has a plaque on it showing how high the water got in 2008, from hurricane Ike, clearly pretty much flooding the whole island, something likely to happen again with increasing frequency and seriousness in the next decades as the sea level is in fact really rising, no matter what the right misinformation system says. Furthermore the rate of rising is also rising. A young person should not invest in beach front property since such property is going to be at progressively increasing risk in future, and will fairly soon become too expensive to insure.
Owens wall plaque thing

Owen comes back and we go to see bats, sloths, frogs and snakes in some zooish place, the Moody Gardens pretty neat. Then we go to see some pyramids from the top of a tall building hotel thing, where we drink some beers and reminisce a bit- we worked in the same institute in Germany for a few years, and did a few trips together, so there is quite a lot of material to go over. Later I meet his wife and son, and we go to a restaurant in the Tesla, and I show off the acceleration a bit to howls of terror and/or joy. The restaurant is on the edge of the sea next to a big oil rig. Apparently there is some oil rig museum there, which might be interesting, though I personally wish that all oil rigs were in museums. I spend the night at his place without breaking or messing up anything or embarrassing myself in any obvious way that I can remember, apparently I am learning to behave better as I age. I could have charged up the car there, but his house has no drive way so I would have had to run a cable out to the road where someone could have tripped over it and so I got sued. Also this would likely have been at 110V, the slowest and most time consuming way to charge, only about 4 miles per hour, so hardly worth it. For those of you who don’t know this, a Tesla will charge at that rate in the US on 110V, because the US grid is quite weak, not up to European standards. But you can charge at 20 miles per hour on a 220V socket which most US houses have on their clothes driers. 220/240V is standard in most other countries, so your Tesla charges faster out of the US. You’ll hear about J1772 or level II chargers, these are getting more and more common, run by Chargepoint and a lot of other companies, these are 220V also and so charge at the same rate. Or you can do faster on the NEMA 14-50 socket found in RV parks, about 30 miles per hour, or you can do 250 plus miles per hour on the Tesla superchargers. This is why I am mostly interested in the superchargers. Tesla just put in the 500th one of these, and they basically allow you to drive anywhere in the US, Europe, parts of Australia, Canada and China for free. However, if you were retired with no reason for speed you could go anywhere in the world for virtually no cost using local electricity, if you are prepared to wait around. Of course electricity is pretty much everywhere there are humanoids while gas stations are not, so you can argue the infrastructure for EVs is already better than that for gas guzzlers, if you have the time.

Day 4 Thursday

Get up at 6:30, go out for breakfast with Owen, then I go looking for chargers using the Plugshare app on my iPhone. I find three other lower power chargers in downtown Galveston, one in a hotel again only for residents, so that is not on. Another outside a Jimmy Johns, and it is already occupied by a black Tesla P85D, and is some sort of one that needs a card or something, a Blink it says, so I can’t use it as don’t have an account. I find another at the Galveston Historical Society, a Chargepoint but some big fossil burner truck is parked right in front of it, and it may not even work, so that is no go also. I drive around slowly and some guy in a pickup sees I have a Tesla and starts talking to me, says there are no Tesla chargers on the island, and I knowingly agree, so he says he plans to put one in, smart man, maybe. I wonder about that since Tesla might put a free charger around Galveston somewhere and then his business would be pretty much bust. Then he drives off and I won’t ever likely find out the rest of his story. I then find that the local Chevy dealer has a charger, so I drive off down there. I walk in and ask a guy with an impressive David Crosbiform face and plumpy Crosbiform body where the charger is, but I don’t think it was the actual David Crosby, as he would likely not be working in a Chevy dealer. He thinks a bit and says he doesn’t know but will find out. An attractive Chevyish lady overhears the conversation and not very usefully opines that she don’t know either, but is very nice about it. They go get a tall guy in clean white shorts, shirt and glasses who does know where it is, and he takes me off to one side of the building. He tells me he was involved in putting in these chargers 4 years ago, and I am only the third person from outside to ever use them. There are two chargers and Chevy Volts are plugged into them so he gets one of them moved so I back up inexpertly and plug in. It is a J1772 220V charger and so charges at about 20 miles per hour, pretty slow. I’m pleased to learn that there will be not be a charge for the charge, (charge no charge!) and I comment that my next EV might be a Chevy and he laughs. Of course I’m thinking not very likely as I say this, but I’m trying to be nice, but all the same feeling a bit sleazy,

So I go off to walk around for a while, into some scrub, wander down a dead end road, which I don’t mind at all. I have plenty of time to get back to Gainesville as the weekend is coming up so it matters little if I get back on Friday evening or Sunday evening. Also I am a keen photographer and I take some camera gear to document the local floras, faunas, landscapes and whatever else. However I am obviously suspicious looking, a tall poorly dressed male wandering on foot, so some tattooed rather porky local homeowner guy asks me rather aggressively if he can help me. I speak with my poncy British accent explaining how I am charging my electric car at the Chevy dealer don’t you know and just walking around somewhat, and he no longer sees me as any kind of threat. I reflect on how effete all that probably sounds, but so what? I find that as soon I talk the Brit accent it disarms Americans, they seem to be impressed for some reason, quite useful quite often. Obviously he does not understand the extensive British history of invasion and conquest although that may be not be all that relevant in my particular case, as there is only one of me. See here for an amusing article on the surprisingly numerous British invasions, in fact the Brits appear to have invaded more countries than any other nation, perhaps not something to be too proud of. Realizing I’m just a wimpy foreigner and no threat to a red blooded and bulky ‘Mercan he gets a lot more friendly and even shows me how to get down to the waters edge without trespassing on someones land. I wander around some more and I see birds and a dog and I immediately bond with the dog. Somehow dogs always seem to like me, I have no idea why. The dogs owner is sitting and working on the fuel injectors of some old Ford or something and I yak with him for a while. I sort of like this as I usually am too busy to just shoot the breeze with people as I am normally trying to finish THIS so I can start to work on THAT, both of which I have to finish to make time for the OTHER. I tell him that the reason I am there is also a car issue, telling him about the Tesla, which he has never heard of. He is 70 and I point out that fuel injectors and a whole lot of other things are not going to be a problem on an electric car. He never heard of Elon Musk either, but he has heard of Ted Turner, so we talk about Ted and Jane Fonda for a while, who I actually don’t know too much about. So when the conversation is sort of about to dry up, I say I am almost charged now and so I wander off. The dog follows me at first but then goes back to the guy.
Older guy with his injectors

After about 2 hours I now have maybe 40 miles more, up to 120, which I think should be enough to get back to the Lake Charles charger. So I drive to the tip of Galveston Island to the ferry port and am surprised to find that I can drive right on to the ferry and it is free. Socialism in the South, what a surprise, or maybe not. The ferry takes maybe 25 minutes to get from Galveston to Port Bolivar, and I attempt to take some artistic pictures of birds and stuff, and I am soon on the Bolivar peninsular which I have been told is pretty nice.

I drive down the peninsular, which looks more like a strip mall than I had expected, but begin to run short on electrons, and I then realize I had just guestimated the distance from Galveston to Lake Charles, and the distance is quite a lot further than I had thought. This sort of underlines that you have to plan a bit if you want to transelectricate in the minimum amount of time. I’m not big on spending a lot of time in planning and that’s one reason I went for the Tesla with the longest range. So I check out the Plugshare App and stop in the Beaumont BMW, they apparently have a charger. I wander into the Mercedes dealer and ask where the charger is, but meet with total confusion, they don’t know what I am talking about. Then I realize that this is not the BMW dealer, which is the neighboring building, so then I transambulate off there instead. I note that BMW appears to be a lot more progressive than Mercedes in the EV business, I then think about that and realize I would have guessed that anyway. In the BMW dealer I meet a very friendly guy called Willie, a very large African American who is how can I put it, seriously overweight. The outside BMW charger is a J1772 Chargepoint and you need a Chargepoint card and my ordinary credit cards won’t work, even the snazzy new one with the chip thing in it. I wonder why these charger companies don’t either take cash, coins or any kind of credit card, as demanding that you have an account with them makes the chargers much less useful to the traveling 4 wheeled or 2 wheeled electromechanical hominid like me. I guess they just want you to have an account so they can charge you a monthly fee, evil capitalists, but maybe I’m being cynical again, my usual default mode. I later find out that the Chargepoint card is free, but you have to order it and give the company credit card information, so they can presumably charge you when you use the chargers. So now I got a card but I don’t know too much about how it works in practice, since I haven’t tried to use it yet. So anyway I tell Willie my card don’t work and he says no problem, and takes the car into the garage, where they have another charger, presumably so they can charge up the BMW i3, a Leaf like EV they started selling recently. Also there is the BMW i8 which has pretty big battery and electric motor, along with a crappy old fossil burner engine. So I’m charging again, but again it is the relatively slow J1772 20 miles per hour rate. So I sit and text, read and write emails, drink coffee and look at Facebook, NYT, Reuters etc, all in the BMW dealership. Willie has to go home after an hour or so, and I thank him profusely and tell him that my next EV might be a BMW, and he laughs. Me being a bit sleazy again, though the odds on me getting a BMW at some point do seem rather better than those of me getting a Chevy, but who knows? I get handed over to a nice BMWy lady who basically just makes sure I don’t break or steal anything or pass out on the floor I guess, and so then I email, web cruise and so on away another bit. The people in the BMW dealer don’t seem to mind me loafing around, and in fact having a few extra hominids sitting around might be good for business, creating an impression of interest and industry. After a total of 2 hours I have another about 40 miles and I thank the lady and get back on the road and head off to Lake Charles, after again not paying anything for all those electrons.

It turns out I still did not have quite enough charge to get the whole way to Lake Charles basically as I am being conservative. I could probably make it but I would get there with just at or possibly slightly below 0 miles range. The Tesla is rumored to go to minus 20-30 miles before it actually stops, but I am not sure if this is true and I also heard running that low may hurt the battery, which may also not be true, but anyway I decide I need to charge up yet again. Using Plugshare and the Tesla site I head for the Best Western Casino Hotel in Vinton on the I10 as there is supposed to be what Tesla calls a destination charger there. From the web it looks like you might need to be a resident at the hotel to use it, so I first try to get a room. I go to the check in desk and am disappointed to find out that they are completely full. So I ask about the chargers, and the friendly rather largish young lady behind the counter says they are in front of the building next to the hotel, and she has no idea how you use them or if you have to pay or whatever. So I go there and there is some sort of J1772 charger run by one of these new charger companies, Clipper Creek, that you need a card for, and I am despondent as I don’t have an account with whoever that is. I think, once again, that a much better business model would be to take cash or credit cards. But then, joy of joys, I notice that right next to it is a single shiny silver Tesla charger!
Charging at the casino

I plug in and it seems to be 220V charging at about 40A, not up to supercharger standards, but still adding a respectable 30 miles per hour. I go to the Subway there and eat a footlong while I am waiting. An Indian guy, from India not the US, in informal jeans and dirty work clothes with rather bandy legs comes up to me while I am eating and asks me very politely if that is my Tesla. I say yes, and he tells me he is the manager of the complex, and the charger was only just been put in, and he is wondering how I found it- apparently I am user number 1. I tell him it is on both Plugshare and the Tesla site as a “destination charger”. He thanks me for the information and heads off. Then I think I will check out the Casino. I am a little hesitant to go in as I wonder about getting hustled into something or other or getting accosted by prostitutes or whatever, either of which would force me to be rude, which, being British, I generally find very hard to do, though I have been getting much better at this recently. But the casino is just a bunch of shooting and gambling machines with mostly retired looking ladies sitting there and pulling levers or whatever. Somewhat disappointed I head back to the car and head to Lake Charles. I get there and charge up, but there are 4 stupid great pickups in the 6 Tesla parking spaces. So there are two spaces left, and I back into one. I am annoyed that these people in trucks just park in the Tesla spaces, and I wonder why it does not state that non-Teslas will be towed. But actually no sign of the sort is there, so why shouldn’t people park there? It’s a Thursday evening and some sort of a social thing appears to be going on in a couple of the restaurants, perhaps explaining this. But I mumble a bit about these ridiculous oversized, noisy, smelly, inefficient and unreliable fossil burners. So I get a coke and a hot dog from the Sonic fast food place, and pretty soon the charging is done. Oh well, I get on the road and then find a cheap hotel close by, a Comfort Inn, and crash for the night.
Charging at Lake Charles

Day 5 Friday

I wake up early and decide to look at some parks and stuff, explore Louisiana a bit, might as well, so I head off south to check them out. I do the Cane River Creole Park and there is a visitor center which I visit and appears to be deserted, though I do hear what appears to be some human or possibly a bear or cow or something making noises somewhere in the building. I walk out onto a boardwalk and see some big fat animals trundling around on the swamp which I think are a family of capybara or pig dogs or something. Take a bunch of pictures of them waddling across the swamps. They have notably big whiskers.

Capybara or pig dogs or something

And there is another park just down the road, which I check out. I go around a drive trail in the Tesla and I stop and get out to look at some bird things, taking pictures. A ranger guy from the park overtakes me in a white pickup with a trailer on which is a lawn tractor. He tells me I should not get out of the car as the alligators have been fed by humans or something and so they might be dangerous or something, all in a rather condescending manner. So I just thank him, deciding not to point out that I live in Florida, in fact Gainesville, home of the so-called Gator nation, and have probably seen far more alligators than he ever has. In fact one day a gator was wandering around outside my house while my daughter, then 12 or so, happened to be home alone. She called up and asked what she should do, and I advised her to take some pictures. Gators  are not really a problem unless you mess with them. Anyway the ranger drives off ahead of me, parks his truck and starts up the ridiculous noisy fossil burning tractor. I park at a boardwalk and start walking, with the outrageous din of the tractor in my ears. So I’m reflecting that you might want to go out to some version of nature, get away from human influences, and you, here anyway, have to listen to hydrocarbons being rapidly exploded in the crappy and inefficient Otto cylinder engines, with the production of unnecessary noise, heat and smell. And if you are close enough you will also breath in some of the excrement from this primitive hopeless type of engine which after all runs on processed prehistoric sewage. Anyway, mildly fuming, I go to a boardwalk and I meet two old people, man and women, most likely husband and wife. Both are fit, thin and look healthy although I would guess maybe 70s, so I, judgementally perhaps, think maybe retired airline pilot and stewardess, retired doctor and nurse, something like that, but I don’t find out. Possibly my guesses are a bit sexist, but then again when those guys started their careers women did not have much opportunity to get to be pilots, doctors or whatever. The guy asks me if I get good pictures, as I have a bunch of photogear with me as usual. I say I hope so, and for some reason I pass on the advice about the dangerous gators, just something to talk about I suppose. I tell them that, living in Florida, I know all about gators. They notice my funny accent and ask me where I am from and I tell them that I’m a ‘Mercan from Florida but I have this accent because I watch a lot of Downton Abbey and other PBS shows, which is a stupid thing I have been saying to people recently. I have told people my true origin so many times now I got bored with that. Anyway the Downton Abbey thing usually gets a laugh, as in this case, though, ironically, I have never actually watched the program. Then I tell them where I am actually from, Nottingham, England, and we make brief references to Robin Hood, Sherwood forest, Sheriff of Nottingham etc. etc. which usually happens. Anyway they walk ahead of me and I get a bunch of what might turn out to be good pictures of them: the boardwalk has nice curves in it, has a lot of interest in terms of details on the wood, the sky, and their two figures and I take several pictures of them, which I think might have some promise in Photoshop, or maybe not.
The older guys on the boardwalk

At one point they stop and look at something swimming in the water. I walk up and look at it too, something with a slow sinusoidal swimming movement. I can’t tell what it is, but it seems to me to be most likely to be a snake. The guy says he saw fins on it, so he thinks it was a catfish. I opine that it’s more likely to be a snake as they swim at the surface as they have to breath, will catfish don’t usually. But of course maybe I didn’t see whatever it was as closely as he did so he may well be right. I realize I am slipping into my usual role, the snotty well educated Brit. This happens very easily not only to Brits but also to University Professors, and I am both of these, used to passing on which may sometimes pass for wisdom, but may also be bullshit. So anyway I then say, to make him feel better, “that was a USO”. Unfortunately he nods seriously as if he knows what a USO is, like it was a real thing, but that was not my intention at all, I was trying to defuse the “I am smarter than you” bullshit we got into, my fault I’m sure. So he is now playing the role of the American pretending he understands what the snotty Brit is saying, when he doesn’t. Then I should have just shut up, but then I say “A USO is an unidentified swimming object”, and he laughs, but I know he is not going to be feeling good as he knows I obviously would have noticed his attempting to bullshit me. Snotty Brit wins again. Funny how complex the relationships can get between people who never met before. I guess the basic problem is that Brits, especially those who managed to get jobs in the US, really are better educated than most, but my no means all, Americans. So Brits like me tend to feel superior to the average American, unforgivable prejudice I am sure, especially as you don’t know who is average and who isn’t. And Americans, for whatever reason, seem to have an often uncritical respect for Brits, apparently just for being Brits. Inexplicable. Of course these two could have been Nobel prizewinners in something I don’t know anything about for all I know so thinking about it later I feel like a jerk.

Anyway I drive off further south, to Conway, where there is a ferry. The Tesla GPS is a bit confusing here, calling it Conway Fry, which may mean ferry, and I arrive just in time to miss the last boarding so I sit for maybe 20 minutes in the car, until the ferry (or fry) comes back. I pay $1 to get on, the only cost of my transport on this whole 2,000 mile plus trip. The ferry is called the Acadia, and my car is the first to get on. I am waved on by two southern boys who are both, how shall I put it, very much larger in two dimensions than the third dimension would normally predict. The older couple I spoke to earlier get on also, but we are told not to get out of the cars, which seems totally stupid, so I don’t get a chance to talk to them again. On the other side I take off and drive up to the Sabine national wildlife refuge, where I walk on another path through the swamp, reflecting on how low the whole region is and how only a few inches of sea level rise would wipe it all out, and that this is likely to happen pretty soon. Then I peruse on what a plague humans are to this unfortunate planet and happen to listen to something about Paul Ehrlich on the radio who in the 70s or so predicted how every person on the planet was going to starve, which of course did not quite happen yet overall, though there are undoubtedly a lot of people starving right now. Starvation now is due to wars, climate change and bad management rather than overall lack of food. In fact in the US the opposite of starvation is an obviously problem especially here in the South. The radio goes on about how Norman Borlaug made sure that the predicted food shortage would not happen by selectively breeding crops with very efficient food generating potential. In other words he genetically modified the crops, although in a very unsophisticated way, selecting the best producers from random mutations but not knowing what genetic changes he was making. So it makes me mad to hear all this nonsense about GMOs, with creepy companies like Chipotle pandering to ignorant people about this. Almost all current foods, like Borlaugs, are genetically modified but exactly how they were modified is not known in most cases since it was done by human selection of random mutations. In fact did you know that the original cow, the Aurochs, is extinct, all beef animals today are inbred genetically modified forms of this original wild species? Only the recent GMOs, made by modifying or incorporation specific genes, seem to raise any public interest, although we actually know more about how they work than those generated by selective breeding. And they are also much more heavily investigated by the FDA. So I say bring on even more GMOs or we will all starve.

Anyway I drive off to Baton Rouge (Red Stick) again, and get diverted by the GPS for some unknown reason on some side streets away from the interstate. Possibly the GPS factored in some road works, accidents or something I dunno. This means I go over the Huey Long bridge and drive through some real Louisiana countryside, very nice, better than the interstate. At red stick I wander around a bit. I buy a coffee in the gas station, use the rest room in Trader Joe’s and then wander back to charger. I see a nice white Tesla Model S come silently by and a professional looking lady gets out. I start talking to her and we yak about Teslas for maybe 20 minutes. She is obviously smart, attractive and not at all overweight, a bit unusual in the South, clearly one of the American illuminati. She has one of the first Model S 85s, bought when they first came out and says she had to charge mostly at 110V, which was her only convenient option when she got the car a couple of years ago. No superchargers in those days. This must be painful, but if you plugged in every night you would gain about 60-70 miles range by the next day, so I guess it would work. For pre-supercharger era long distance trips she went to RV parks which have the NEMA 14-50 sockets, giving about 30 miles per hour. She said she can do this for free usually, and that all the time the opportunities for charging are increasing everywhere. I give her my card and get hers in return. She’s not on Facebook, but on some Tesla web site and I have the feeling I might run into her again, and it might be fun if I did. She is a judicial assistant to a bankruptcy attorney, a job which I don’t know much about. I ask if that might be a bit depressing to do, and she says she rationalizes as being a way of helping people who got into a mess often because of health care costs, divorce or other financial problems. I opine that this must pay pretty well. Like other Tesla owners I met she says not really. Thinking about it I usually claim not to be particularly rich also, I’m not sure why that is. I suppose it is just a matter of priorities, $70,000-100,000 is really not that much if you have a decent stable professional job, certainly much less than the cost of a house which most middle class people can manage. Anyway, clearly she is one of the believers, interesting to meet such people. I’ve met several other Tesla owners now, a plastic surgeon, a guy who runs an rope company, an optometrist, the ex-military religious guy and now the bankruptcy lawyer, so now I now know where to go for all my plastic surgery, rope, optometry, military/religious and bankruptcy needs.

Get on the road again, drive away from red stick but get tired. I find a random hotel, a Comfort Suites at Mandeville Louisiana. I talk to the guy behind the counter who says sign here at these three places, no pets, no smoking and some other stuff, and he highlights the places to sign with one of those fluorescent yellow markers. There are actually four places, and I say, sorry to be pedantic, but there are four places to sign. He looks puzzled and I apologize for being pedantic, which I say is something the British are good at, part of the national character don’t ya know. Again I am the snotty Brit, twice in one day, but, well, there are four places not three so what is one to do? Can’t let the colonials get away with sloppiness. He says he had another Brit in the hotel a few days ago and he had fun talking about the differences between British English and ‘Mercan, quite interesting he said. He says rubbish and trash. I say yeah, lift and elevator, holiday and vacation, flat and apartment, but I don’t say potayto and potarto, that would be too obvious. I then quote old Winston in my best Churchillian deep voice, “England and ‘Merca are two countries divided by a common language”, and he laughs. I then think about Douglas Adams and the translation worm thing which ensured eternal persistent intergalactic war since every species could suddenly completely understand every other, but I decide it would be too complicated to go into that. I ask if there is a bar or restaurant in the hotel, and he says, unfortunately no, he wishes there was. So I go off and get some more beer at a convenience store. I’m a bit hungry so I notice there are round objects wrapped in aluminum foil in the convenience store and, on finding out that they are hamburgers decide to buy one, well there is not much else to eat. The guy at the counter, tall, intense and thin 25ish with long black straight hair, likely a student trying to come up with tuition cash, says I can just have it, as they are closing soon and the burgers would have to be thrown away. I thank him and am a bit surprised. Maybe my usual slobby appearance and the fact that I walked to the store, apparently not arriving by car, makes me appear to be a homeless derelict or somesuch. Perhaps derelicts in the South often have British accents, I dunno.

Day 6 Saturday

Woken at 8 by the radio/phone thing in the hotel, don’t know why, presumably the last resident set it that way. Goodish free breakfast with burgery things, toast and coffee. I head off to the Mobile supercharger, no problems finding it now I know where it is. I pull into the mall and start to charge, the only Tesla there, as appears to be usual, for now anyway. A lady in a white Toyota slowly drives by, circling around. She stops and asks me about my car. She is a young attractive African American and is clearly quite informed about Tesla, though this is the first time she has seen one. She knows that Tesla cars do not need oil changes, and that impresses me as most people don’t have any understanding of why fossil burners need regular oil changes and therefore don’t understand why an electric car does not need them. She says she has been thinking about getting one, especially now that there is a Supercharger in Mobile, this one only having been there for a few weeks. Nice and smart lady, she thanks me and drives off. I then wander off into the mall while the car recharges. I look at the list of shops and, like in most US malls now, no book shop- a shame, the local mall in Gainesville used to have two bookshops in 1986 when I first came to the US, but now has none. I wonder whether this is because of the internet, Kindles, iPads and other ways of getting information or a general reduction in the level of reading in the US. I conclude probably a bit of both, reflecting also how quite a lot of ‘Mercans appear to be quite proud to not know anything about anything, this not boding well for the future of the country. The only other shop that I would like to browse around is a Radio Shack, listed on the mall map. So I hoof it over to there, and, as I sort of expected, it is gone, closed down. Once again a shop which could expand your horizons has gone and will likely be replaced by some sort of fashion shop for shoes or pants or something which will likely just fit your expanded thighs and not expand your mind. Oh well. I go to the Macdonald’s and, deciding not to expand my personal thighs anymore, just buy a coffee and head back to the Tesla. As I walk back I try to imagine what this mall will look like in 20 years time. Will there be a line of charging stations along the entire length of the parking lot? Will every second car be an EV? Will there be zombies and/or space aliens noisily feeding on the mall customers? I suppose that eventually shops will want to attract customers by giving them free or at least cheap charging. Maybe charging will be inductive so there won’t be any need for the plugging in. Or maybe an automatic charger based on a snake thing will slither out and automatically mate with your charge port- Tesla is working on something like that and just posted this. Difficult to predict the future, nobody ever really gets it right, but it’s interesting to try.

I get in the car which is not quite charged yet and start doing random things, when a very serious looking skinny boy steps out of a car and starts taking pictures of the Tesla with a cell phone. I get out and start talking to him. He is a very intense maybe 9 year old, and his parents soon get out of the car also. They are large middle aged individuals, not tall, but, well, rather overweight, the man by maybe 100 lbs and the women by 50. They are friendly and ask about the car and I give the usual party line story. They are impressed that charging is free, and they tell me the kid is very interested in cars. As we are talking a lady in a white Prius comes by and I go into the whole Tesla spiel again. None of them have seen a Tesla before, so they get a bit of education.

Then I get on the road and head to the USS Alabama Memorial Park, in Mobile bay, at maybe 2:00 so there is plenty of time to look around the battleship, museum and all that. I get a ticket and go on board the battleship for what I figure will be an hour or so. A very impressive bit of machinery, one of the few all big gun battleships left in the world, not one of the original dreadnoughts, but from a 30s-40s design, massive 16 inch guns and all. I’m also impressed by how cramped it is, and it must have been really cramped with 2,500 people on board, the wartime complement. See all kinds of little rooms for mapping, communications, navigation, stores, sleeping, pooping, the canteen, get inside a gun turret, all pretty neat. Can see how it would be basically impossible to get out in an emergency and reflect on the deaths of entire ships complements in wartime. Must have been very scary to know that if the ship was shelled, bombed or torpedoed it could sink pretty much immediately and that you could be on a one way trip to Davy Jones’ locker with no chance of escape but some time to think about what just happened. I also visit the USS Drum, a submarine, which is even more cramped, and a collection of aircraft, including an A12, F14, F15, F16 and a MiG15 among others. There is so much there I don’t leave til 6:00, when the place is closing, and have taken a bunch of pictures of this, that and the other. I reflect that my cameras are digital, so the images are free, not like they used to be when I had to consume film. This is how my Tesla compares to a fossil burner, free versus obligatory consumption. So there is some progress in the world in photography as well as cars.

Then on the road to De Funiak Springs again, which I reach at just about sunset. Deadly quiet and peaceful, even though it is a Saturday evening. The little frd chk restaurant I went to on the way out is now closed, and it seems like it closes every day at 2:00 pm except, inexplicably, on Monday, when it closes at 7:00 pm, which was why it was open last time I was there. So I wander around at bit. There is a Hotel which has a bar and grill, but I can’t see any life in it at all, so I just walk on. I heard later that this is actually a pretty nice place, so maybe I will book a room there some time when I am traveling. I find a Mexican shop where I thought I might get a burrito or something, but it turns out to be not a restaurant but a store. So I buy a Gatoraid and head back to the car. Not much going on in Dr Funiak on a Saturday night. I later found that there is a gas station a few blocks from the charging station, so I could have sauntered over there to get a coffee or whatever, but I did not know that at that time. Since I have that long trip, ~220 miles, to the Lake City charger I charge up to almost 100%, 270 miles, and off I go. It gets dark and I keep to 62-65 miles per hour for the most part. After a while I get tired and pull off at a Days Inn for the night, at Lamont, Florida. An Indian guy, from India again and presumably the owner or manager or something, gets me checked in, and some other taller white bearded white guy comes in and starts asking about the car. They both seem to think it is a hybrid, but I tell them that it is not and it will not take gas. They don’t seem to understand that and so I repeat that there is no useful place to put gas in the car, and now they sort of get it, but they are clearly a bit challenged still. One of them asks me where it is made and I tell them it is a ‘Mercan company, made in California, but you can’t buy one in very American state, like Texas for example. I then rant on about the scumbag dealer franchises and how they try to lobby Tesla out of “their” states, stifling the competition for utterly selfish reasons. We then go on about charging, range, cost blah blah etc., but briefly as I am now getting tired, so then I go off and crash in the room.

Day 7 Sunday

So I get up about 7:00 and have breakfast at the hotel, I go into what passes as a breakfast room and there is an old skinny unhealthy looking white haired guy, with the hair greasy and showing bald patches, sitting there. I look around for the coffee and toast and he points out where the bread is with an Irish accent. I am mildly annoyed as I had just figured out where the bread was on my own, but thank him anyway. I don’t feel like yaking much so I check out emails, news and stuff with my computer on the free WiFi. The old guy then gets up and goes to the toaster and puts some bread in. I notice he has something odd about his walk and I wonder if this is booze, old age, Parkinson’s or something similar. Anyway he puts the bread in and then can’t figure out how to turn the toaster on, which is one of those fairly simple ones where you just push down this lever thing right next to where the toast went in. I am about to offer help, as the guy makes some comment about people thinking he is a bozo since he can’t turn on the toaster, but the Indian hotel owner or whatever he is shows him how to do it. I feel sorry for the guy and hope I don’t end up like that. I eat some toast, drink some coffee and that is it. Then head off to Lake City, get there with 20 miles charge remaining, after doing at least 70 mph almost the whole way. It’s also quite hilly between De Funiak and there, so this is not too bad. As I write this Tesla has indicated that there will be a supercharger in Tallahassee soon, halfway between De Funiak and Lake City, so I won’t have to plan much for that trip any more. In fact, as I revise this, the Tallahassee supercharger is now up and working. I get to Lake City at about 10:30 am and wander around again while I am charging. I try to go to Moe’s again to hear the “Whacamo” thing, but they open at 11:00 on a Sunday, so I head off to Firehouse Subs in the same complex and as I go in they shout “welcome to firehouse”, with not quite as much enthusiasm as Moe’s. Obviously they are trying to compete though. The sub is good, but no WiFi. I eat and then sit outside and write a little on the computer. Some guys come up to the Tesla and look at the charger, seems like Teslas are not well known in Lake City either, but I don’t feel like going through all that again, so I don’t volunteer that I am the owner. I’ve now charged maybe 10 times in Lake City, but never saw another Tesla there. I’m about to leave, having fully charged, when there is a screeching of brakes and a very loud crash. When I do leave, there, on the main road to the interstate, a large, white and ancient pickup has somehow seriously collided with a newer dark blue Honda or Toyota or something, and police, spectators and ambulances are all there, gawking, doing something useful or just getting in the way. Oh well, there but for the grace of Dawkins go I. Perhaps if I had left a minute earlier then the pickup would have hit me, who knows? Anyway, off to Gainesville, back there at about 12:00, a trip of a total of 2,150 miles.

Conclusion

So what is the conclusion from the trip? Well I can clearly do a very long trip in a Tesla without any problems. The only cost, apart from food and hotels, was $1 for the ferry (or fry) in Louisiana. For almost free, so if I can you probably can too. Almost all of the time I used the Tesla superchargers and having to wait 30-40 minutes to charge was not generally an issue. After all, after ~200 miles driving anyone would probably want to stop for a bit anyway, so in most cases I was fine with this. As this was my first long distance trip I mostly charged up to 90%, about 245 miles on my car, as I wanted to have a big margin if the charger was not working or some other problem came up. This meant I spent a lot more time charging than was absolutely necessary to get to the next charger. On subsequent trips I knew that the chargers were reliable so I now only charge up enough to get to the next charger with 20-40 miles reserve, and this saves a lot of time. So quite often I am charging for just 20 minutes or less. The Tesla software will actually tell you when you have enough charge to get the next charger, with quite a big margin, and on subsequent trips I trusted this without any problems arising. Some of the chargers are in places where there is too not much to do, which could be a problem sometimes for some people. However there is always some kind of hotel, restaurant or fast food place, though depending on the time of day they may not necessarily be open. I never saw more than one other Tesla at the superchargers over the entire trip, which usually have 5-8 charging points so I never had to wait, though this will likely change. My 85D has a number in the 70 thousands, which is the number of these cars built. Since Tesla is producing roughly 11 thousand of these cars per quarter, not all of them going to the US, it seems that the superchargers are not going to be overcrowded at least for a couple of years. The other interesting thing was that I went cold turkey, driving through parts of the country where there are no Tesla superchargers. This turned out to be not a problem also, though you might need to have some time on your hands. On this trip I used J1772 chargers at Chevy and BMW dealers, a Tesla destination charger and on previous trips with the Leaf I had used J1772 chargers at Nissan dealers. In every case these were free, though of course this might also change. Also in every case the people in charge of the chargers, if that is not too alliterative, were extremely friendly and helpful, though this might also change if a lot of people with EVs start to show up at dealers expecting free electrons. The J1772s are slow, but Nissan dealers and some of the charging companies are now putting in the CHAdeMO DC chargers, rapid chargers somewhat comparable to those of the Tesla network. You can buy an CHAdeMO to Tesla adapter which I don’t have right now. At the time I took this trip I actually was not totally aware of the option of charging at RV parks, which the lady in Baton Rouge had told me about. These did not show up on the apps I was using, so I now got an RV park iPhone app, RV Parky, so I can find those in future. Most RV parks have those big NEMA 14-50 sockets and the Model S comes with an adapter for these. I’m told that RV parks will often not charge for this, but again this might change if lots of people start doing it. You can sleep in a Model S, as was demonstrated by a guy who put his Model S as a hotel on Airbnb. This was apparently sort of a joke, but he did have one customer, which you can read about here. I also did not know much about Chargepoint and other commercial chargers, mostly J1772 type chargers, but again likely to get upgraded. So all in all there is a already a large EV infrastructure and it is growing all the time. So anyone with a Tesla can travel the whole of the US for pretty much free, and the Model S is a very comfortable car, extremely well suited to cruise on the interstate with the cruise control, which I mentioned above, making it almost effortless. A retiree, with time on his or her hands, should seriously consider this car as, following the initial investment, it is is not going to cost much to run. No cost for gasoline, oil or antifreeze and no maintenance of spark plugs, oil levels, radiators, fuel lines, water lines, exhaust systems, valves, drive bands and all the rest of the complicated nonsense in a gasmobile. And the Tesla software should soon include the ability of the car to automatically stay in the lane, giving the driver even less to worry about. Anyway, a comparable trip to this one in a fossil burner of similar price and performance would have been, maybe, a little bit quicker as the 30-40 minute stops could have been shorter, though as I noted above I was spending more time charging than was really necessary. I actual checked out the Model 7 V8 sedans from BMW which are about as heavy, powerful and expensive as my Model S. These have real world mpg values of 16-17 mpg and require premium gasoline, which was at around $3.00 per gallon at the time I took this trip, and so would be around $380 for gasoline, compared to $0 for the Tesla, or $1 if you count the ferry (or fry) in Louisiana which the BMW would also have to pay. The BMW is, even though a V8, a little less powerful than the 85D and the base price was a little more, so the conclusion as to which is the better buy is fairly obvious.

So all in all the current network of superchargers was perfectly adequate and the infrastructure is improving all the time. After this trip I have done two even longer trips, from Gainesville to Santa Fe, New Mexico, a round trip of 3,700 miles and Gainesville to Bristol, Rhode Island, a round trip of about 2,850 miles. The Santa Fe trip was free, but the Bristol trip cost a surprising amount in tolls, but no cost for electricity. In no case have I come close to getting the battery flat and in every case the supercharger was where it was supposed to be and was fully functional. One day I managed to do over 800 miles, which would be hard to do in any car, and shows how the waits for charging don’t have to have much impact. Meanwhile people are getting more and more understanding of the numerous problems of fossil burners compared to electric cars. It’s not just the global warming, though that clearly ought to be problem enough. I am actually a scientist and I read the two preeminent science journals, Nature and Science, every week. As a scientist I can tell you there is absolutely no doubt that climate change is real and that humans are causing it. It is true that a very few scientists doubt this, but most of these are paid to confuse the public by the fossil fuel industry. One or two true doubters do remain, but there are still a few scientists who doubt that HIV causes AIDS for example, though the vast majority do not. Heretics are useful as they help to make the consensus case even stronger but they are almost always wrong and destined to be forgotten. I don’t know any climate change doubter with scientific credentials although I know hundreds of scientists. The CO2 level in the atmosphere has been and is progressively increasing and CO2 is without question a greenhouse gas, this was established before Al Gore’s great great grandparents consummated. There is also strong isotopic evidence that the extra CO2 in the atmosphere is derived from fossil fuels, so the case is really closed. As a result of human activity we can expect more CO2 in the atmosphere in the near future and more extreme weather, forest fires, droughts in some places, floods in others, sea level rise and agricultural disruption, all on a small planet with an increasing number of humans to feed. All this will causing famine, strife, migration and war. The only good thing is we will be constantly reacting to damage, destruction and disruption by repairing and rebuilding stuff which will generate jobs. However that is not the kind of economy most of us would like to see. There is also the health effects, breathing exhaust fumes causes cancer, asthma and other lung diseases, causing at least hundreds of thousands of premature deaths all over the world each and every year. There is also the issue of the political corruption generated by the fossil fuel industry, who buy elections in the US, think the evil Kochs who plan to buy the next President using their inherited fossil fuel wealth. Also countries which have oil actually lose in the long run. Pumping oil is cheap and the stuff sells well so Saudi Arabia, Russia, Nigeria, Venezuala and others can support their crappy regimes without educating their people or investing in any kind of productive or competitive businesses. So eventually, when oil either runs out or becomes irrelevant, these countries will be in huge, huge messes. Fossil burner cars are also just plain inefficient and unreliable. You need to change the oil all the time and you have to keep the engine in tune, as the spark plugs loose their ability to spark, the pistons wear in the cylinders and so the compression goes down, the exhaust system rusts out, the radiator leaks and drive bands wear out with potentially catastrophic results. A fossil burner engine has hundreds of moving parts while an electric motor really only has a handful. So you will have a long term and persistent dependency on your garage and the fossil fuel industry, and spend a lot more time and cash maintaining a fossil burner than an EV. At best fossil burners put only 30% of the energy in gasoline to moving you down the road. In the past I might have said something more favorable about Diesel engines, which are a bit more efficient than gas burners, getting up to maybe 50% efficiency. But that was before the recent VW scandal which brings into question how much pollution this type of engine really makes. Electric motors can do 90% efficiency or more with no trouble. Finally fossil burners have no option but to burn fossils unless you count biofuels and ethanol, neither of which currently make any real economic sense. In contrast an EV can run on free energy from superchargers, wind, solar, nuclear, hydroelectric, thermal or from your own solar panels. It’s interesting to see how the fossil fuel industry and the electric utilities are trying to slow down the EV and sustainable energy movements, obviously because these movements will make them extinct. Of course other fossils are mostly extinct so why not these?

Also you might have noticed I noted that a lot of the people I met on the trip were, how shall I put it, a bit on the largish side. Unfortunately Americans think it is necessary to eat three meals a day, each one large and each one often made of stuff largely goosed up with carbs and sugar. Just read the labels, bagels, tomato sauce, bread, peanut butter, soup, baked beans and much else in the US contain added sugar, usually high fructose corn syrup, which does not need to be there and I will not even mention all the cakes, cookies, sweets, soft drinks and other crap which you would expect to contain a bunch of sugar. And I was driving through the South, where these problems are at the worst, most meat and vegetable are fried, which is the default cooking mode, resulting in even more extra caloric intake. I’m not a crazy nutritionist, but I do notice that most of the people in my age group are way overweight, and many of them have type 2 diabetes. More and more of them are having strokes and heart attacks. I am personally just a little overweight, about 198lbs for a 6ft 1 body, but that is nothing compared with most people. My solution to the overweight problem was simply to routinely miss breakfast and lunch, just eating in the evening. I am not sure how healthy that is, but I am myself pretty fit, so I guess it is not a bad way to organize your life. Americans uniformly think that is completely crazy, but why? I never get a good reason. You may have noticed on this trip I ate irregularly usually taking advantage of the free breakfast in a hotel and often not eating anything else much each day, basically avoiding food. This is not my normal routine, but, well, if food is free why not get some? In summary, the US is OK to visit but try not to eat the food while you are there.

On the road I saw an occasional Nissan Leaf in towns, easy to recognize because of the slightly unusual styling. Of course the range issue means that currently the Leaf is not likely to show up much on interstate highways, and I did not see any there. As far as I know I saw no other Teslas on this trip on the interstates, but I am not sure if I would recognize another Model S just yet since it is not especially unusual looking. I know I would not recognize a Tesla Roadster as that would appear to me like any other little sports car, and that kind of vehicle has never interested me very much. As I mentioned above I only saw two other Teslas at the the charging stations on this trip and since then this has been the pattern- usually mine is the only one there, sometimes there is another one and one time, in my now over 15,000 miles, there were two other ones. So as I drove around I reflected on the huge preponderance of fossil burners and wonder how long it will take to get a significant percentage of them off of the road, and hopefully replaced with much more sensible EVs. Probably a depressingly long time, cars, if they are looked after, last 15 or more years. Also in the US certain politicians are doing everything they can to keep all of the fossil industries alive, because of course they get paid to do that. However I think that people are slowly realizing that EVs are just better in many respects. I think adoption will increase much more quickly than most current predictions, particularly if the Tesla model 3 and the inevitable competition from BMW, Nissan and other Asian companies are marketed at about $30,000-35,000 with a range of 200-250 miles which appears possible. A sudden peak in gas prices for one reason or another is very likely to happen, as it has several times before, and this always engenders much more interest in alternatives. And of course coal is rapidly dying and renewables are accelerating rapidly. As solar and wind get progressively cheaper they will soon outcompete the fossil industry which will mean that less and less electricity will be generated from fossils, so EVs will become fossil guilt free. Something that people don’t seem to realize is that renewables are really different from fossils. If you get your energy from fossils you are always dependent on fossils. If you get it from renewables there is some up front cost but very little expense afterwords. So each percentage increase in renewables is a percentage that will never go back to the fossils, they will inevitably loose, it’s only a question of how long they can hang on. Eventually of course fossil burner cars will become like horses and steam engines, a few still around and running and displayed at specialized events by aficionados, but not part of normal transportation. The sooner this happens the better IMHO.